Motorcycle apparel catalog gear for motorcyclist and bikers

Buying a mini bike on line is becoming the preferred approach for many mini bike users. It allows you to buy a mini bike very easily and quickly and often mini bikes on line are cheaper then those in the stores. However there are certain things you should ensure.

Firstly, make sure you know exactly what you are buying, it may be better to see if they have a showroom or warehouse where you can check the bikes out before you buy them if you are unsure. All good mini bike sites will give a good description of the bikes you can buy, as well as the exact specification.

If you are purchasing a mini bike from a well established reputable on line dealer then it is likely that there will be no problems, as they will be honest about the bike and often offer a warranty of some kind as well as free shipping.

Used Mini bikes

There are many places to buy a used mini bike on line, the main source of used mini bikes on line is Ebay. Make sure you are cautious when buying a bike from somewhere like this. I would always try to go see the bike before you buy.

Many people will be dishonest about their mini bikes, make sure that the bike your getting is exactly how it is described and if not then don’t feel pressured to buy it. If you are buying from Ebay then make sure you check the buyers feedback to make sure that they can be trusted.

In store

This is the safest method of buying a mini bike, you get to see the bike before you buy (sometimes you will be allowed to test ride it) and therefore you know exactly if that is the bike you want. However some stores may be more expensive to buy from than on line but you do get the buyers protection as you will always have somewhere to take the bike if something goes wrong.

Dull grey skies today, a steady heavy rain, poor visibility. An opportunity to impress the crowd with a textbook demonstration of wet weather riding skills.

Starting with hardware. Motorcycle in good condition, especially tyres, the grooves good and deep to channel away water, no letting them wear flat with constant upright motorway riding, no messing about trying to extend their life because they look okayish. A helmet that won’t mist up. Clothes waterproof and breathable, they’re four years old now, never had any maintenance, I can ride through a downpour all day and not have a speck of moisture on me, miracle of modern fabrics. No trivial matter, comfort, a safety issue, you can tough stuff out for a while but it wears you down, you need your attention on staying alive not whether your feet are cold. Hi viz belts and bands, you can’t tell how many times you stay alive because some unnoticed driver sees you and doesn’t mow you down, but over time it’ll be quite a few.

Fifty percent increase in the safety bubble in front. Partly to stay out of the spray. Partly because braking distances are longer. Partly because if there’s trouble, you don’t brake, you accelerate. Braking puts the weight on the unstable front wheel, accelerating puts it on the stable back wheel. So you need space to accelerate into. Also, ride in a lower gear, use it to slow down without braking or accelerate without delaying.

Be real careful changing lanes, cars often leave their headlights off and they’re damn near invisible. Otherwise don’t worry about what’s behind you, let the hi viz stuff protect you there, concentrate on the trouble up front.

Ten mph slower than normal. That’s the deal. If you abrogate speeding limits to your own judgement, your position is a lot more compelling if you sometimes go slower, not always faster.

The game is, every time you hold back, you get a gold star. Here’s a gap I’d normally take, not today, one gold star. That doesn’t mean you have to be cowed and subdued, in fact often in the rain there’s an even greater need to filter past stuck traffic, just do it with less relish. Then collect the gold stars. But any rashness or impetuosity, all gold stars cancelled, start again.

Ten minutes later than normal for work, but a half hour margin allowed anyway, just for such contingencies. And about fifteen gold stars. Good start to the day.

Motorcycle riders use a number of motorcycle accessories like helmets, jackets, gloves etc. which can protect them from injuries in case of any accident. Motorcycle gloves are one of the most important accessories for motorcycle riders.

Motorcycle gloves have much wider utility as compared to ordinary leather gloves that are just used to keep hands during winter and to maintain grip. Motorcycle gloves act as jackets for hands and in case of any accident they take the hit instead of our precious hands. The palms of hands have number of nerves and blood vessels and if we imagine your bare outstretched hands hitting the concrete and sliding at speed, we will clearly understand the importance of motorcycle gloves.

Gloves come in many styles, colors and materials. So one can choose a glove according to his/her choice and need. Mesh or perforated leather gloves are best suited for people who ride in warm weather these gloves offer ventilation to keep hands cool and thus one won’t tempted to ride without gloves. Water-resistant gloves are suited for people who ride during rain. Rain gloves that cover regular glove when those downpours hit are also available. Manufacturers are providing wide varieties of gloves of various shapes, size, and colors depending on the choice of the consumer. While shopping for a glove one can even look for glove that offer good knuckle protection. Gloves should have metal or plastic armor over the knuckle area. A heavy duty palm with Kevlar, metal or thick leather will provide protection to one’s hand. Number of brands are available in market so no matter which glove one decide to purchase, one must make sure to wear gloves all of the time.

Modern sporting motorcycles can come with a near dizzying array of suspension adjustability. Pre-load, compression damping, rebound, high-speed damping, low-speed damping, etc. Where to start?

Before you start looking over your bike to see what we’re talking about, please note this article is primarily intended for the sport bike rider. Most cruisers have little or no suspension adjustability. You either live with what the factory gave you, you have your suspension components upgraded with after market units, or have the internal bits replaced by a professional.

The easiest and most important adjustment you can make is to set the static sag. Sag is just what it sounds like - how much the bike sags when you’re on it.

Ideally your sag should be from 25 to 30 mm, or 1 to 1 ½ inches, on most bikes. To find out where your sag is, you’ll need a helper. Dress up in all your usual riding apparel, including helmet, leathers, boots, etc. You want to set your sag using the same weight as when you ride. While standing next to the bike, push down on the tail once or twice to make sure the suspension is at its normal resting position.

Using a dowel rod, yard stick, or similar device, measure the distance from the ground to a particular point on the motorcycle. Turn signals or a point on the seat or frame will work fine. Just make sure the point you measure from is not covered up when you’re on the bike. OK, got the measurement? Either write down the measurement (in inches or millimeters) or simply mark the spot on your rod/stick.

Now get on the motorcycle, in full gear. This is where your helper is needed. For the most accurate measurement, try to hold the bike fully vertical with both your feet on the pegs. In this position, take another measurement. See the difference? That is your sag. If it’s smaller than 1 inch or greater than 1 ½ inches, you’ll need to adjust the pre-load on your forks and/or shock to get the desired results. Increase pre-load (usually a clockwise turn of the adjusting screw or collar) a little at a time to reduce your sag. Decreasing pre-load will increase the amount your bike sags.
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