Hot dog cart on fire is an inside joke here among certain Icon employees. Once upon a time we were young, immature, and irresponsible motorcycle riders and preformed a two-bike smokey burnout in front of ’boutique’ hot dog cart located in downtown Portland. The gathered on lookers mistakenly thought the tire smoke was actually the hot dog cart on fire. But a lot has changed since April and we’ve totally mended our ways. We’re completely mature and responsible now and leave the ill-conceived burnouts to professionals at closed course events. Professionals like our newest team members – Rob and Chris from 1WR.

Team 1WheelRevolution is on the road this summer. You can find them tearing up HD dealer parking lots coast to coast. Check the Limiter Event Calendar for their next stop(pie). We hear there’s usually free hot dogs at these events. Yummm…Hot dogs. The only thing we like more than the new WXDRLGLF is a free hot dog. Oh yeah, and trikes. We like trikes more than the new WXDRLGLF. But barely.

Fly Racing Evolution Jersey
My arms pump up like crazy so I’m extra picky about sleeves and cuffs. I don’t like to feel constricted in any way and the Evolution jersey fits perfectly in this regard. Actually, the size Large fit perfectly all around, but the “Zero-Cuff” was my favorite feature. The loose-fitting opening never squeezes the forearm and allows plenty of air to move up the sleeve. The Lycra stretch collar is also unobtrusive but fits tighter than the sleeves to keep roost from dropping down the rider’s neck. Mesh panels are integrated to keep riders cool during hot days or long motos. I never had problems with the tail coming untucked with a large silicone print to keep it in place. The design is slightly busy, but we like the look and durability of the sublimated graphics.

Fly Racing Evolution Pants
These are some of the most advanced motocross pants I’ve worn. Fly has found a great balance of allowing room for knee braces without being baggy. The 840D construction is very tough and has survived many washes and a few small crashes. Both knees feature heat panels made from soft, pliable leather. The knee is vented with rubber air scoops located on the outer edge. Venting is definitely one of the pants’ strong points with perforation on the entire front of the pant from the waist to the shin. It flows a lot of air and a very cool “stealth” vent on each leg adds extra cooling. The stealth vent is a nondescript zippered vent which is unnoticeable when riding and helps considerably when the temps go up. This is one of my favorite features.

Fly Racing Evolution Gloves
I was really excited about the padding on the double layer Clarino glove palm. The extra layers in the thumb area do not have stitches or overlaps that rub and the glove fits snugly. As expected the palm is great, but the top of the fingers causes some problems. The stitching that connects the top of the fingers to the back of the hand lands just under my top knuckle when wrapped around a hand grip. Even after several rides the stitching never softened up or conformed to fit my hand better. This was the only negative aspect of the entire gear set, but it was bad enough that I had to quit wearing the gloves.

As Fly’s top-shelf line, this is premium gear and it feels like it. Not only does it perform extremely well, but I got multiple compliments at the track on its styling. Our set is the blue/white colorway and I’ve been particularly impressed with its ability to resist staining. The Evolution gear is also available in black, red and purple as well. In years past I’ve had great success with Fly’s premier dirt bike gear and the latest incarnation is even better with the exception of the glove issue, so be sure to try them on before purchasing – my knuckles might be bonier than some. Fly’s association with top racers like Andrew Short has obviously paid off with apparel that can perform at the highest level.

Fly Racing Evolution Gloves – $34.95 
Fly Racing Evolution Jersey – $45.95 
Fly Racing Evolution Pants – $159.95

TLD CP 5900 Chest Protector 

 

The Troy Lee Designs CP 5900 chest protector can be worn comfortably over the jersey or underneath.I’ve always been a big fan of chest protectors and Troy Lee Designs has the concept nailed as far as I’m concerned. The Bodyguard 2 Roost Deflector took residence in my gearbag full-time when the 2010 TLD riding apparel became available. There seemed to be no good reason to change since it did virtually everything I expected from a rigid deflector, but then I got my hands on the Troy Lee Designs CP 5900 chest protector.

Troy Lee Designs has teamed with Shock Doctor to provide protection from head to toe that is on the cutting edge of design, comfort, safety and technology. The rage for upper-body wear these days is integration with neck brace systems. The 5900 uses a low, wide neck port and minimalist shoulder cups (we don’t even want to call them that) to allow the Leatt neck brace without any need for modification or interfering with the protective qualities of either piece of equipment. At the base of the chest protector is a hinged three-piece chest plate which allows the softly padded rib protectors to flex and contour around the sides of the torso. The trio of plates use a mixture of hard plastic and foam which eliminates clattering or binding, offering a smooth and secure fit. The two outer panels are held firm by a strap on each side which buckle into a clasp at the chest plate and provides easy and quick access. The chest panel is connected to the rear via a “soft-yoke” component that rests lightly on the shoulders. Combined with the articulating panels, the flexible yoke is another way that the 5900 is able to move with the rider’s body, even if it’s bouncing along the ground.

My riding style isn’t the most graceful, but I can still appreciate the clean look of a small, lightweight chest protector that goes unnoticed under a rider’s jersey. Unfortunately, I just don’t have confidence in them for crash protection. Getting roosted sucks and any deflector will help with that, but I really count on the hard plastic frame to keep me from getting punctured when I hit the ground, or skewered by a passing branch. The CP 5900 is the best blend of a soft under-jersey protector and hard outer protector that I’ve seen. I prefer to wear it over the jersey, but when looks are a concern I wear it directly on my skin without any chafing.


This is the most form-fitting chest protector I’ve worn. The flexibility and overall coverage is amazing. TLD also offers a version with arm guards.Vents on the rigid outer panels feed the Vent-Trak system – a network of channels in the base foam layer which allows airflow around the rider’s body. Because the CP 5900 clings so tightly to the body and doesn’t shift around, I was concerned with heat retention, but the venting system works exceptionally well. Available in medium or large adult sizes, at 5’11” and 177 lbs sans gear, I ran the large and it fit perfectly right out of the box. TLD says there are 50 possible combinations to tailor the fit, but I was able to cinch down the side straps and go ride, no adjustment needed.

The only flaw I can find is that the multitude of screws that hold all those panels together come loose easily. This is mostly my fault for not checking them regularly, but after I find some replacements I’ll be certain to go through each one with a touch of Loctite. TLD brags that the CP 5900 sets a new standard in the moto industry, and from what we’ve seen it’s a fair statement.

Our First Ride through Southern California in action with the 2011 Triumph Tiger 800 XC First Ride Video.

Triumph used teaser marketing to build so much hype around its new 2011 Tiger 800 XC adventure bike that it almost defeated the purpose. It was promoted so heavily, and so far in advance, it became tedious. Well, after riding the Tiger 800 XC for over 300 miles in the California desert, mountains and urban streets, we’ve quickly forgiven the British brand. Yes, the Tiger XC was worth the wait.

Unless a rider is looking for a BMW, midsize adventure bikes are hard to come by. The Germans have owned the segment in the past few years with the F800GS, and the rest of the motorcycle world has stuck with 650 machines or 1000cc beasts. These mid-size displacements have the muscle and comfort to handle long stretches of pavement much better than the smaller bikes, but also offer much less weight and increased maneuverability compared to the big bikes. It’s this blend of characteristics that makes them so desirable, and Triumph took that into consideration when building the new 800.


The Tiger Triple is happy to provide smooth torque for slippery off-road conditions, or high-revving horsepower for the street.The UK brand is known for its inline three-cylinder engines. The Triple design blends high-performance revving with real-world usability, meaning it has nearly the top-end thrill of an Inline-Four and some of that lovable Twin torque. Not only does that make for a great street bike, but it also pays dividends in when the pavement ends with smooth, controllable power delivery. Triumph’s powerplant has the same internal bore as the 675 engine (74mm), but with a longer stroke (61.9 vs. 52.3mm). A 12.0:1 compression ratio squishes fuel inside the 799cc mill. Four valves per cylinder handle intake and exhaust duties and fuel is metered via electronic fuel injection.

“What a sweet engine,” says Associate Editor, Justin Dawes. “The power is decent at the bottom of the rev range and just gets better from there. The mellow bottom end works well in the dirt, especially with the tires that are more geared for the street. With knobs in the dirt, riding higher in the revs would be the hot ticket.”

The Tiger pulls hard all the way to a 10,000 rpm redline with peak output coming just before at 9900 (81.63 horsepower rear wheel). It’s within 10% of that peak from 7700 on up, so the Tiger 800 definitely gets revved out on the highway. Torque is dished out to the tune of 49.74 lb-ft at 7700 rpm. The true beauty is that it tops 46 lb-ft at just 3500 rpm and only drops to 43 at redline, so there are never any lulls in power. Building up a powerslide in the dirt is much easier thanks to the predictable delivery. There are no big surges or flat spots anywhere. One thing we did notice about the Triumph, which also reminds us of the 1050, is an abrupt throttle. Modulating off and on takes extreme finesse to avoid lurching, and this is most troublesome when applying steady throttle to pilot through corners.

To some ears, the three-cylinder might be more harmonious than the wail of an Inline-Four, but one audible we don’t like about the Triple is the ridiculous burble it gives off on deceleration. For half of our first day we kept looking down to see if something was rattling off the bike. The sound is annoying, and neither of our testers ever came to like it regardless of how many miles we racked up.

“Too bad,” agrees Dawes. “On decel it sounded like Orville Redenbacher was doing work in the headers.”

A little popcorn sound is a small price to pay. Triumph matches the engine with a very slick six-speed transmission. We had no trouble with the gearbox and the ratios are well spaced, including the final chain drive sprockets. The clutch lever must be pulled all the to the hand grip in order to fully disengage, which leads to a stalling tendency at low speeds or technical off-road riding. It was mostly a problem maneuvering in the dirt, but even at stop lights it would be preferable to use two fingers instead of four.

The rear section of frame looks a bit unfinshed to some testers. This brake pedal is hard to find, and often the rider hits the taller case guard causing extreme braking. The clutch requires four fingers on the lever.
Spoked wheels give the Tiger more off-road capacity and we wouldn’t hesitate to slap on knobbier tires. Even some mild treads would improve the already-impressive off-road behavior. Stock tires on our machine are the Bridgestone Battle Wing 501 front and 502 rear. The forward hoop on the XC is 21 inches compared to a 19 incher on the standard Tiger. This helps roll over larger off-road obstacles and keeps the front end of the bike higher. It also allows for more tire selection. A 17-inch rear is standard for large ADV bikes. Selectable ABS is available for the Tiger as an additional option, but our machine was the standard XC which comes without.

Topped with fuel, the Tiger weighs in at 496 pounds. Fortunately, the bike feels lighter in all situations. Tubular steel makes up the frame with the engine acting as a stressed member of the trellis design. It turns quickly on pavement and keeps the CG neutral feeling when off-road. The steering angle is a little sharper than its road-biased sibling with rake being 23.1 degrees rather than 23.7, but trail is increased to 3.58 inches. Wheelbase is a half-inch longer as well at 61.7 inches. Stability is one of the XC’s strong characteristics. Even when lightening the wheel over rises in rough pavement or hitting buried rocks on a sandy road, the Tiger holds its course without complaint.



The Tiger XC is very well-mannered in the dirt. We’d love to get a set of knobbies on this to see what it can really do.“Handling in the dirt is amazing for such a big bike,” exclaims Dawes. “The front fork rides high and gives the familiar handling of a large dirt bike. Kicking out the rear end was easy and could be controlled with just a slight amount of input on the footpegs and bars. For sandy sections, standing is required otherwise the bike wallows all over the place.”

Fortunately, standing is comfortable on the 800. We rotated the bars forward in the clamp and that was plenty to keep even our 5’11” tester satisfied. The wide fuel tank makes it easy to lean against while heading downhill and the rubber vibration inserts pop right out of the footpegs. Seat height is adjustable from 32.3 to 34 inches and the foam is so good you won’t want to stand up.

Also aiding the cushy ride is the 45mm non-adjustable Showa fork with 8.7 inches of travel. The shock is adjustable for rebound and preload, the latter with a hand-turn knob. We like the ride quality of the shock on pavement as well. For off-road use, both ends are soft, but they are extremely predicable. Both ends will bottom over just a small waterbar, but the 800 can be jumped slightly. As for pavement, the Tiger has no worries – everything, including sunken grades and potholes are handled without trouble.

The front end resists diving on the pavement despite dual 308mm brake rotors with twin-piston Nissin calipers. Out back is a 255mm single disc both ends provide excellent feedback. However, the foot lever is pretty hard to find sometimes, which can cause the rider to search in a panic and step on the case guard.

Instrumentation on the Tiger’s controls is effective but minimal. The LCD display offers a digital speedometer, trip computer, gear position indicator and clock, with an analog tach located to the right of the multi-functional instrument pack. A windscreen diverts buffeting very well, though our taller rider noted a bit of pressure on his shoulders. Handguards droop a bit, even after we tightened them down, which worked to our advantage when splashing through creek crossings. Triumph offers crash guards and a heavy-duty skidplate as accessories. We’d definitely take the underbelly protection with the soft suspension. The XC costs an extra $1000 compared to the standard Tiger for an MSRP of $10,999 – roughly $500 less than the BMW (though with ABS would be more).


Triumph hit a home run with the new Tiger on its first swing.Every rider has their own tastes, and one of our testers thought the Tiger looks unfinished in the rear end with its exposed subframe rails, while the other considers it a stunning machine. A set of factory hard cases helps cover up the rear end, but one thing’s for certain, Triumph took a long, hard look at the BMW F800GS when designing its middleweight adventure bike. The two carry a very similar stance but the XC has a noticeable heritage. The new Tiger boasts flavor that harkens back to the 1050, particularly with a distinct tank area. The fuel cell holds 5.0 gallons and we averaged 39.6 mpg which equates to roughly a 200-mile range. It seems logical that we could improve the fuel economy slightly by not riding at such a high rpm, but the sporty engine begs for it. Between the surprising torque and equally shocking prowess on and off the highway, the Tiger 800 XC should be a big seller for those in-between-sized adventure riders who want a non-German machine.

2011 Triumph Tiger 800 XCEngine: 12 valve, DOHC, in-line Triple
Displacement: 799cc
Bore/Stroke: 74mm x 61.9mm
Horsepower: 81.6 HP
Torque: 49.7 lb-ft.
Compression Ratio: 12.0:1
Cooling: Liquid
Fueling: Multipoint sequential electronic fuel injection
Ignition: Electronic
Starting System: Electric
Transmission: 6-speed
Final Drive: X-Ring Chain
Chassis: Tubular steel trellis frame, twin-sided aluminum swingarm
Rake/Trail: 23.1 degrees/3.58 in.
Wheelbase: 61.7 in.
Seat Height: Adjustable 32.2-34.0 in.
Front Suspension: Showa 45 mm upside-down fork, 8.7 inches travel
Rear Suspension: Showa monoshock w/remote oil reservoir, adjustable preload, 8.5 inches travel
Front Brake: Dual 308mm floating discs, Nissin 2-piston floating calipers
Rear Brake: Single 255mm disc, Nissin 2-piston floating caliper
Front Tire: 90/90 ZR21, spoked aluminum wheel
Rear Tire: 150/70 ZR 17, spoked aluminum wheel
Fuel Capacity: 5.0 gal.
Curb Weight: 496 lbs.
MSRP: $10,999 Related Articles Tiger 800 U.S. Debut at Long Beach IMS Triumph Tiger 800 & Tiger 800XC First Look

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We test drive Aprilia’s latest Dorsoduro 1200 street bike. See what it’s like to ride in the 2011 Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 First Ride Video review.

Motorcyclists looking for the ultimate road-going supermoto experience need to strongly consider the 2011 Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 ($11,999). This Italian-made street bike represents the extreme in terms of performance courtesy of its liquid-cooled, 1197cc V-Twin engine, hybrid steel/aluminum chassis and racing brakes. For all the juicy tech details make sure to read the 2011 Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 First Look as this review will focus on the riding impression.
 
Hop into the saddle and it’s immediately apparent how tall of a motorcycle it is. With a seat height of 34.3-inches it wasn’t exactly built to be ridden by vertically challenged folks. In fact, it’s quite a stretch to get both of my feet planted on the ground at a standstill (I’m six-foot tall). Compared to a pure supermoto, the seat is wide with ample padding which made it surprisingly comfortable even on a 150-mile ride. Grab a hold of the aluminum handlebar and you’ll notice its relatively low bend, though it’s not enough to alter the straight-up riding position and generally works well.
 
Flip the key, thumb the starter and the engine roars to life with an intoxicating melody courtesy of its mixed chain/gear-driven valve train and raspy exhaust note (86 dB idle / 98 dB at 4800 rpm) emitted from its twin underseat mufflers. Pull in the clutch, drop it into first gear and it’s time to ride…
 
As you pull away from a stop the bike feels slightly clumsy and top heavy. The first inch or so of suspension travel is soft which only exacerbates the condition. Fortunately its awkwardness vanishes above parking lot speeds.
 
(Left) Ground clearance is a big improvement as compared to the 750 model. (Center) Braking is one area that the Aprilia really excels at. (Right) The Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 is a surprisingly comfortable bike on the street.

Right off idle, the engine carburates cleanly with minimal vibration. Bottom-end power is robust with upwards of 60 lb-ft of torque from just over 4000 revs. This makes it quite easy to lift the front wheel off the ground in first or second gear. Peak torque of 72.78 lb-ft arrives at 7600 rpm and the torque curve remains flat even as the engine closes in on redline (9600 rpm). Both final drive gearing and the internal gear sequence work well to maximize acceleration yet gearing isn’t so short that you feel like the engine is going to be revving excessively in top gear, even at triple-digit speeds.
 
Like other Aprilia street models, the Dorsoduro 1200 allows the rider to select one of three engine maps while moving based on road conditions or rider preference by pressing the red starter button. “S” or Sport mode allows for maximum engine power (114.49 horsepower at 9000 rpm) with the most aggressive hitting throttle response. “T” or Touring also unleashes full engine power with a milder throttle response. Lastly, “R” or Rain mode limits the engine’s power for use on wet roads or other traction-limited surfaces.
 





(Top) The open cockpit allows the rider to move around the motorcycle. (Bottom) The aluminum handlebar has a low bend but is still comfortable on the street.While we enjoyed the outright acceleration force in both Sport and Touring modes, the throttle is overly sensitive which makes the bike more challenging to control when you’re wheeling or modulating the throttle mid-corner. Based on that experience, I actually preferred riding the bike in “R” mode in slow-to-medium speed corners as it makes the bike friendlier to ride aggressively. Sadly, the U.S.-spec model doesn’t come equipped with ATC (Aprilia Traction Control) or anti-lock brakes in order to keep its price competitive, according to Aprilia. Instrumentation is comprehensive and fairly easy to read, but navigating the menu system is way too complicated and an area that Aprilia could really improve.
 
In our performance tests the Aprilia galloped to 60 mph from a stop in a time of 3.52 seconds. It continued to a quarter mile time of 11.57 seconds at 121.9 mph. With its relatively long wheelbase (60.1 in.), adequate feel from its hydraulically-actuated clutch, not to mention its open dirt bike-style cockpit which allows the rider to position weight over the front wheel, it’s one of the easier bikes to launch hard. As expected, one area the Aprilia fails at is fuel mileage. We averaged just 25.2 mpg which netted a range of less than 100 miles.
 
On the scale the Dorsoduro 1200 weighs in at 488 pounds with full 3.96-gallons of fuel. It’s a bit of a surprise because it feels much lighter in motion and is generally a fairly good handling motorcycle in the corners. Tip the motorcycle into a turn and steers with minimal effort though we wish it employed a slipper clutch as it’s quite easy to get the rear wheel to chatter during aggressive corner entry. Ground clearance is good as well, and is definitely an improvement compared to the 750 model.
 
As mentioned before the first inch or so of travel is soft, but as the suspension moves deeper into the stroke damping firms up in a progressive manner allowing the rider to better explore the handling capabilities of the bike. In fact its well-calibrated suspension settings are one of our favorite features of the bike. Not only does it serve up a high-level of sport ability in the corners, when rough pavement is encountered the bike delivers a very plush ride which makes it very enjoyable to ride all day. OE-fitted Dunlop Qualifiers (view more Dunlop motorcycle tires at Motorcycle-Superstore.com) deliver adequate levels of outright grip, but it would have been nice if Aprilia would have fitted a newer style tire with more road feel.
 
Stopping performance is another area that the big Dorsoduro impresses us even though it doesn’t make use of a slipper-clutch. The two-piece Brembo radial-mount front brakes deliver excellent power with sufficient feel through the stainless-steel brake lines. From 60 mph the Aprilia stopped in a distance of just 110 feet.
 
As expected the Aprilia impresses with the outright acceleration power from its big-bore engine, not to mention its corner-carving abilities when the road starts zigzagging. And it’s above average level of comfort now makes it a viable motorcycle for more than just backroad riding adventures. If Aprilia could improve fuel economy and fit a slipper clutch without bumping up the price we’d be completely sold on the Dorsoduro 1200. 2011 Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 Photos

Engine: Liquid-cooled 1197cc V-Twin; 8-valve
Bore and Stroke: 106.0 x 67.8mm
Compression Ratio: 12.0:1
Fuel Delivery: Fuel-injection
Clutch: Wet multi-plate, hydraulic actuation
Transmission: Six-speed, chain final drive
Final Drive Gearing: 16/40
Frame: Modular steel-trellis/aluminum
Front Suspension: Showa 43mm inverted fork with adjustable spring preload, compresion and rebound damping; 6.3 in. travel
Rear Suspension: Sachs gas charged shock with adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping; 6.1 in. travel
Front Brakes: 320mm rotors with radial-mount Brembo four-piston calipers
Rear Brake: 240mm rotor with single-piston caliper
Tires: Dunlop Sportmax Qualifier 120/70-17, 180/55-17
Curb Weight: 488 lbs.
Wheelbase: 60.1 in. 
Rake: 27.8 deg. Trail: 4.64 in.
Seat Height: 34.3 in.
Fuel Capacity: 3.96 gal.
MSRP: $11,999
Colors: Glam White; Competition Black
Warranty: Two year, unlimited mileage

Dear ICON
On June 20, 2010, a year ago today, at approximately 3:45 PM, while riding on the back roads of Pennsylvania, I was negotiating a right hand turn, when a whitetail deer jumped from the side of the road and removed me from the bike. I just wanted to take this opportunity to say thank you for saving my life. Maybe not you specifically, but the excellent products you produce.
This incident is still somewhat cloudy in my mind! All of the details I know came from the gentleman who found me, the police report, and my hospital records. I am very thankful to the gentleman who found me lying face down in a field, with my feet barely visible from the road. When he stopped to check on me, he did not think I was alive. However, he noticed my back rising and falling. At which point, he realized I was alive and he went down the road to the closest house to call 911.
According to the police report, I was removed from the bike when the deer impacted my upper body and I was thrown approximately 10 feet from the point of impact. The deer was found dead another 20 feet from me. The police estimated I was traveling about 35-45 miles an hour, well within the limit and the curve.
As far as the hospital goes, I was taken by life flight to a local trauma center where I spent two weeks in the Intensive Care Unit; I did a week and a half in an inpatient physical therapy facility and many weeks of outpatient physical therapy. I ended up with medium severity – a collapse lung, a broken C-6 Vertebra, a dislocated right arm, torn cartilage in my right shoulder, both #1 ribs were broken.
I always wear my gear when I ride, so does the rest of my family. We all have ICON gear and are adamant believers in wearing gear when we ride. Please see the attached photos of my jacket which was cut off me from my back and down my arms, several pictures of my bike, and several pictures of me in the hospital. My ICON helmet is nowhere to be found, it was lost somewhere in transit.
I am writing this to you today as it is the anniversary date of my crash, more so, to help with me with getting back on my bike again. According to the doctors at the hospital, if I was not wearing the gear I was wearing, I probably would not be alive today to tell my story. I am lucky to be alive. I again wanted to say thank you for the great products you make. I am currently in the processes of acquiring the parts necessary to put my bike back together. In addition, I will be purchasing new ICON gear when I am ready, as I feel your products saved my life with your superior products. Thank you again!
Patrick M.
PA

The jeans are form fitting through the thigh and knee areas, which reduces the occurrence of material shifting or flapping around. The bottom of the leg is a bit looser fitting and the pant cuff is tapered to mitigate the chances of it getting caught in the chain as well as coinciding with the latest fashion trend.

The jeans run a little long which was welcome as it still covered the ankles of my lanky legs when riding. At the front, there are two main and a stash pocket as well as two back pockets that are secured with metal buttons. Additionally the fly and waist are secured with metal buttons as well.

The Rider Jean won’t be loved by everyone as it favors folks with more slender body types. However, if you fit in to this audience you’ll be hard pressed to find a more comfortable or better looking denim for use on or off the bike.

The Troy Lee Designs Rider Jeans is available at:
MSRP: $119.00 – $129.00

You have a dream, hopefully everybody has. I guess around here our dreams evolve around motorcycles one way or the other. Some people are blessed to be able to live out that dream. Lately we have seen some pretty cool stories about people who have had some really cool experiences on motorcycle. Deciding to pursue your dreams almost always involve shit loads of work. But the hope is always that it will pay off in the end.

Recently I set out on the greatest adventure of my life so far. Together with my good friend the German Photographer Dirk Behlau, I set out to create a documentary film about the culture around custom motorcycles and cars world wide. We want to do something different and tell a really good story about some of the greatest artists living today. Stray a away from the jack ass like look that dominates a bit too much and make it rock for whooping 75 minutes to an audience that gets bored after 3 minutes. That’s a pretty damn challenging task, but we can make it.

To show we can deliver on our promise, we have already funded most of the filming our selves. Now we are in the final phase of shooting and it’s time to raise some funds. We are doing this through crowd funding. Which essentially means that you, yes YOU, can participate in the creation of the film by preordering the DVD or claiming some of the other super cool perks we have created for you. You can check out the options here

This is not a charity. We want to give you something in return for your support. You can choose perks from 5$ to 65.000$ and everywhere in between. What ever you choose, we appreciate your support.

The industry standard foam back pad that comes in most motorcycle gear (left) compared with Joe Rocket’s Speedmaster back protector.We’ve all heard the story about the new rider who, having just depleted his bank account on the sales floor, walks up to the man at the dealership parts counter and asks, “What’s the cheapest helmet that you have?” The parts man replies, “It depends what value you put on your head?”

So what value do you place on your spine? If you were prioritizing what parts of your body to protect in a motorcycle crash that neurological superhighway to your lower extremities would come in a close second after the brain. Skin grows back. Bones heal, but most damage to your neurological system is permanent and life altering.

Let’s face it, nothing feels as natural or comfortable as riding around in jeans and a t-shirt. Combined with the high price of quality riding gear and the inconvenience of zipping off and stashing an extra layer when we get where we’re going, we have plenty of reasons to James Dean it on our next motorcycle ride. But take a second to consider the helmet.

In the mid-seventies many states started to enact helmet laws. Without taking the can opener to the whole helmet issue, it’s common sense that if you fall off of a motorcycle having a little foam and plastic between the pavement and your cranium is better than nothing. But at the time, nearly all riders grumbled and complained about the new,

The small/medium version of the Joe Rocket Speedmaster back protector provides ample coverage on a six-foot frame.expensive, awkward, stuffy and un-natural piece of equipment they were being forced to wear. Thirty-years later, helmet technology has come a long way and most riders wouldn’t think about turning the key on their bike without buckling on a lid.

Back protectors have been around since the seventies when world champ Barry Sheene fixed some used face shields in a clam shell shape and sold the idea to Italian leather makers Dainese. Quickly becoming standard equipment for racers, back protectors have long been the last priority for street riders. Until now. 

Joe Rocket is a Canadian gear company with a history of introducing the riding public to innovative equipment at an affordable price. An example is their Speedmaster back protector. The Joe Rocket protector differs from the traditional Dainese-style hard clam shell design. Instead of plates it is composed from a waffle material.

Seem familiar? No wonder. Joe Rocket has gotten its TPro technology from the U.K. designer Forcefield. Unlike foam or hard plastic, the TPro technology has a “multi-strike” capacity. Most hard plastic back protectors are like helmets. One blow breaks them and compromises the structure. They’re one hit wonders. TPro technology is designed to withstand multiple impacts. The material is lightweight, flexible and breathable. It’s also less bulky and more comfortable than most back protectors you’ve probably tried.

“Wait a second,” you say, “My jacket has a back protector.” Take a look inside that liner. While the foam pads that come standard as spinal protection in most riding gear are better than nothing they still fall short of the protection provided by hard armor. It is CE (Certificate of European Conformity) Level 2 rated.

I recently decided, with the help of Joe Rocket, to start wearing a back protector every time I throw my leg over a motorcycle. The only problem was, short of time spent at the track, I could never remember to put it on before I walked out the door. When I finally found a solution by sitting the Speedmaster on top of my helmet, I started wearing it on a regular basis.

The behavior change of remembering to put it on is the only inconvenience of the Speedmaster back protector. In everyday usage the protector was so comfortable and unobtrusive that you forget that it is even there. I even slipped it under my jersey for two back-to-back days of dirt bike riding. The comfort level over two days of extremely physical riding was perfect.

The protector is held in place by two adjustable shoulder straps and a waist band that is secured with Velcro, so it goes on and comes off as quickly as a helmet. It’s contoured to fit the natural shape of the back. The protector did have a tendency to ride up, no big deal with the smaller size, but it kept the larger version from being comfortable for me. The low-on-the-waist band may also make the design uncomfortable for female riders. In the U.K. Forcefield makes a female specific version of their back protector that situates the waistband

The Speedmaster is held in place with two shoulder straps and a waist band that closes with Velcro.higher to keep it in place on an hour-glass figure. We hope that Joe Rocket will follow suit.

With the Speedmaster Joe Rocket takes away all of your excuses for not wearing a back protector by making a quality and affordable product. Will it mean a change of habit when you’re suiting up for a ride? Sure, but a little practice and you won’t feel right being in the saddle without it. How much is your spine worth? Just think of it as a helmet for your back.

The Joe Rocket Speedmaster Back Protector

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Motorcycle insurance is defined as the insurance of motorcycles and liabilities arising out of the use thereof.

Motorcycle insurance is a way of sharing the risks of driving between you and your insurance company. Motorcycle insurance is one of these things you need to worry about… You need insurance to ride a bike.

Insurance is not only a sound judgment, but also required by law. Motorcycle insurance is one of those annual bills that there really is no escaping.
The insurance coverage helps pay for financial losses or obligations resulting from the use or ownership of your motorcycle.

Motorcycle insurance is specifically designed to give customers the coverage they need giving them peace of mind out on the open road. The purpose of motorcycle insurance is to protect you from financial loss if you have an mishap while driving your motorcycle.

In a previous article I talked about the impact a clean, well polished motorcycle can have on your price when selling a used bike. I also discussed the effect of including any unneeded parts and accessories in your bike sale. Here are a few more simple steps that can help you get the most cash for your current bike.

The tasks below should only take an hour or so to accomplish and should help to increase the value of your bike to prospective buyers. Just a bit of preparation will differentiate your bike from all the other used bikes for sale in your area.

Find Your Old Maintenance Records

If your old maintenance receipts are floating around your house, see if your can dig them up. Having records for all your past oil changes, tune-ups, tire changes etc. will set you apart from almost all other bike sellers. Since very few bike owners hold-on to their receipts, it’s just another way to demonstrate to buyers that you have taken very good care of the bike you’re selling.

When buying a bike, I’m always pleasantly surprised to find a seller with repair records since it usually means the bike has been meticulously maintained. So, if you have your receipts buried in a drawer somewhere, take a few minutes and round them up to show to prospective buyers.

Research your Bike’s Current Worth

If you do just one thing before you put your bike up for sale, this is it. This step will take just a few minutes and go a long way to insuring you’re getting a good price for your bike.

There are many sources to check used motorcycle prices but I have a favorite – the N.A.D.A. Appraisal Guide. You can check the motorcycle section of N.A.D.A. out online to get the current retail value of your bike, including many popular options – very helpful! The site gives “Low and Average Retail” pricing for each bike model. If your bike is in good shape and you’ve followed my earlier advice, you should be able to get their top price.

I also recommend that you pick-up your local motorcycle classified publication or auto trader to compare your pricing with the other bikes for sale in your area. Usually, this will confirm the pricing you got from the N.A.D.A. Guide and you can be confident that your bike is priced right.

Write a Good Classified Ad

With a just little preparation, writing an effective classified ad for your motorcycle is a snap. The funny thing is many folks write awful ads for their bikes. The reason many ads are not effective is a lack of critical information. Being a big fan of used bikes, I’ve read thousands of motorcycle classifieds over the years and far too many have been missing essential things like engine size, model year or even price.

So, as you’re writing the ad for your bike, reference this checklist of essential elements:

• Bike year, make & model
• Engine size
• Overall condition
• Current miles
• Color
• Any recent parts purchased
• Any extra parts
• Maintenance receipts (If you have them, of course)
• Asking price
• Contact info (Seems obvious but I’ve seen many without this)

I like to have a copy of the motorcycle classifieds handy when I write my ads to reference the common language and abbreviations for my ad. And if you store your bike indoors, mention it in the ad. Since so many bikes are kept outside all year, storing yours inside will set your bike apart to buyers.

And personally. I like to price my bike with an “Asking price” that allows buyers to haggle a bit and still settle on a price you’re comfortable with. And with a little luck, you may get the full asking price from your buyer.

There are customized bikes…and then there are custom-built bikes.

What’s the difference between the two?

Cusstomized Bikes
Well, anyone who goes to a bike store and has the clerks there help him, or her, fit the bike properly, will usually "customize" their bike by choosing the kind of saddle they like (narrow or wide, gel-filled, etc.), different stem lengths for handlebar height, v-pull or disc brakes, etc.

You can continue to customize your bike with accessories such as bells, compasses, and lights – and you can even give it a paint job if you’re good at that sort of thing. (Indeed, I’ve got a Schwinn Sierra that’s about four years old, and I’ve been thinking of giving it a new coat of blue paint with yellow highlights. Unfortunately, I know I don’t have the skill to make it look even halfway decent.)

Road bikes are, obviously, built specifically to ride on roads, and aren’t suited for cross-country travel. The tires are very narrow to provide as little resistance as possible to the road, and the handlebars are of the drop-down type which force the rider to lean forward at an acute angle. However, there are various additions to the handlebars one can get so that when resting is more important than speed, it’s possible to sit up straight and still control the bike properly.

Lowriders are another type of road bike, though not one used for racing, but rather for cruising around showing off their paint jobs.

Custom Built
What does custom-built mean? A custom-built bike is one that is built for you from the ground up – and hand-crafted more often than not. Your every measurement is taken and the frame is built to those measurements. Cranksets will fit your legs, top tubes will be just the right length, and it’ll be built out of the space-age material you prefer.

And in addition to that of course you can choose the types of shifters and breaks you’d like as well.

Custom-built bikes are the most expensive bikes you can get, but they will fit you like a glove and if you are a serious bike rider that is the type of bike you’ll want.

Serious road bikers have many different activities in which they can indulge, from"ultra long distance riding" (Randonneuring) to triathlons – where one of the three segments of the race is biking. These type of athletes have to have custom-built bikes.

Ducati manufactures a series of motorcycles that are perfect for everyone from casual riders to professional racers. Their current line of bikes includes the super-popular Superbike 1098. This 2007 model has been designed for performance on the road and on the racetrack. Other models in the Ducati line include the Desmosedici RR, Monster and Sportclassic.

In addition to a superior line of motorcycles, Ducati also offers a great line of accessories. These accessories include items like racing bike upgrades, exhaust pipe upgrades, engine performance upgrades, wheel upgrades and bike covers. Ducati also offer a selection of apparel. Their apparel line includes helmets, caps, shirts and racing gear.

There are a lot of ways to get your hands on Ducati motorcycle parts and accessories. The first way is to visit a local Ducati dealer. Here you will find new and remanufactured parts for your bike. If you don’t have a Ducati dealer in your area then you can order directly from the Ducati company. If you use this method for shopping for motorcycle parts you will have access to upgrade kits, racing gear and authorized parts.

If you are interested in finding used Ducati motorcycle parts then you will need to do a little digging. You can search classified ads listed in your local newspaper, or you can search the classified ads posted in sporting and motorcycle publications. You can also search websites that offer used products like eBay. Motorcycle service shops are another great source for finding used and remanufactured parts for your Ducati motorcycle.

Owning a motorcycle can be a dream come true. They offer you freedom, excitement and affordable travel. In addition to being a great recreational vehicle they can also be an affordable commuting option. Motorcycles are inexpensive to drive because they don’t use very much gas and because they don’t require a lot of upkeep. However, to improve the quality of ride that your motorcycle delivers, to extend the life of your bike and to reduce the maintenance and repair costs associated with owning your motorcycle, you may want to invest time in learning how to replace, install and upgrade motorcycle parts and accessories by yourself.

There are several types of motorcycle parts and accessories that most motorcycle owners shop for on a fairly regular basis. The most common parts shopped for are those parts that deal with lubrication and friction reduction. These parts include oil filters, pumps and air filters.

Tires and wheel rims are two other motorcycle parts that most motorcycle owners shop for. Upgrading or replacing your motorcycle’s tires and rims can be a quick way to improve the look of your bike and to improve the smoothness of its ride. They can also be a great way to transform a bike from a street bike to a track bike, or from a street bike to a touring bike.

In addition to motorcycle parts, hardcore motorcycle gearheads also spend a lot of time and money shopping for motorcycle accessories. These accessories can either be for their bikes or for outfitting themselves. Accessories that are designed for outfitting bikes include bike covers and saddlebags. Accessories that are designed for outfitting the rider include helmets, caps, apparel and motorcycle gloves.

With the increase in attention of motorbikes (thanks to the likes of Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman), more and more people are considering buying a motorbike for use as their main mode of transport. While buying a motorbike may be a hassle in itself, getting insurance for it is another thing to worry about. However, there are certain factors insurance companies use to see if you qualify for their insurance policies and also to calculate your premium rates.

One of the first things they consider is you, the driver. The most common issues are your age, where you live, where you work and your driving history. Age is considered because the older you are, the lower the premium rates would be. However, this rule would be null and void if you’re a beginner in the world of motorcycling. Where you live and work is also an issue in terms of where you would park your motorbike when it’s not in use. Is it in a secure and well-lit area or parked beside a kerb on an open road? If it’s possible to store in a garage, or even a shed, do it. The idea is behind this is to lower the level of danger your vehicle might come into contact with when you’re not using it. The mileage also counts – low mileage equals lower rates.

Your driving history will acknowledge any past accidents, regardless of what type of vehicle you’ve driven in the past, while a clean licence would also mean lower premium rates. An additional factor is the bike itself. The common rule is that the newer the bike, the more you would have to pay for it.

However, there are also things you can do yourself to ensure you get the best possible policy for your motorbike.

The main objective is to look around the various companies which offer insurance to motorcyclists. Take a look through the Yellow Pages or go online to find motorcycle insurance comparison websites. Alternatively, simply ask around for advice with like minded individuals who own motorbikes themselves as they would have gone through the same process.

Above all, the most important thing is not to lie when it comes to applying for your motorbike insurance policy. Be honest and concise with your answers, even if it means admitting that you park your newly purchased motorcycle in front of your house, with no alarm, at night – if you don’t then you run the risk of getting your claim rejected for "non disclosure". By taking the time to researching what type of companies and policies are out there, the task of getting your motorbike insured is less daunting and as a result, you’ll be able to save on your premiums whilst getting a fantastic policy.

’If you got a $50 head, then get yourself a $50 lid!’

That’s the advice I was given before buying my first motorcycle helmet. It’s the best buying advice I’ve ever had too! Choosing a motorcycle helmet is, in the end, a personal choice but it’s pretty obvious that you generally get what you pay for.

There are various types, all of which have their strengths and weaknesses. Here’s a list of the those available:

Motorcycle Helmet Buying Tips

Try on motorcycle helmets a number of times to detect possible ’problem’ areas with the fit. Use a mirror to see how the helmet looks on your head; make sure that the helmet rests just above your brow. Make sure the helmet rests tightly against your forehead, you shouldn’t be able to get your thumb between the helmet and your forehead. Always check to see if any red marks are showing after you’ve removed the helmet.

Always make sure that the motorcycle helmet you buy has been Snell certified, or is a DOT approved motorcycle helmet. If not, your insurance cover may be affected – check with your insurance company about this.

Noisy helmets are to be avoided as they distract the rider and cause extra fatigue. Lower quality ventilation systems are chief cause of noisy in helmets. The more aerodynamic the helmet and the better the vents, the less noise there will be. Generally, cheaper helmets are noisy helmets.

One of the best assets of the KBC helmet is the noise level. The VR series KBC helmets are among the quietest that I’ve ever worn. KBC uses a proprietary visor sealing system that contributes to the low noise levels of the helmet.

Comfort levels are adequate. The VR series KBC helmet is not the most comfortable you will ever wear, but you also won’t be complaining about it except maybe on the longest of rides.

The weight of the helmet is very good for this price range. You can find a lighter helmet, but you’ll pay more for it. Additionally, the helmet "feels" light. Moving your head around for a quick traffic check feels very natural.

The sub-par ventilation system is a major reason that this helmet does not get two thumbs up in the comfort department. KBC helmets seem to have a reduced airflow compared to competitive helmets. Combine this with a restrictive wind blocker under the chin and the KBC helmet is a little on the warm side. Again, not necessarily a deal breaker, but something to be aware of.

The finish of the KBC helmet is average. I have heard reports of slight flaws in paint and have even seen some of these for myself. In my opinion, these types of flaws are typical for helmets in this price range.

There’s no complaining about he price of the VR series KBC helmet. It is less expensive than most helmets of this quality and if you shop around, you can find a good deal. I use MCGearDeals.com. They have a listing of the best deals on KBC helmets, so I don’t have to spend my time searching the web.

The VR series KBC helmet is a great mid-level helmet. Venting could be better, but superbly low noise levels and a low price tag combine to make this helmet a pretty good value. I don’t think KBC helmets deserve the “best value for the money” crown, but it comes pretty darn close and is a worthy consideration for your head. If you can find one on sale, all the better.

“If you’ve got a Shoei head, get a Shoei lid”

Shoei has been manufacturing motorcycle helmets for over 40 years and their current flagship model, the X-Eleven, continues their tradition of high quality helmets that work as good as they look. The X-Eleven designers gathered real-life feedback from top Moto GP riders like Chris Vermeulen and refined their ideas in the wind tunnel to perfect it’s aerodynamic profile and ventilation system.

Appearance
It may seem odd to begin with the look of the thing but, when you think about it, it’s the look that catches your attention, isn’t it? And, if you’re honest about it, the look of the lid plays a big part in whether you choose it or not. The X-Eleven comes in a large enough variety of paint schemes (including solid colors, original paint schemes and some replicas) that everyone should be able to find one they like.

As befits a flagship product, the X-Eleven are partially hand-painted and, as usual with Shoei, the quality of the paintjob is brilliant. Many owners will say that, even after heavy use and a few “scuffs”, the varnish and colors bear up exceptionally.

When wearing the X-Eleven for the first time, most riders remark on the comfort of the fit.

The first thing you notice about the X-Eleven is its comfort. As I said earlier, different helmets fit different riders, but if the X-Eleven fits your head shape (as it does mine), you’d be hard-pressed to find a more comfortable piece. The padded mesh inner liner (removable for washing) has a smooth texture and is firm enough to keep the helmet safely in place without being uncomfortable.

Ventilation System
Ventialtion is one of the most important aspects of any helmet. There’s nothing worse than having your head “boil” inside your lid because of poor ventilation. There’s no chance of this happening with the X-Eleven though as the ventilation system is absolutely top-class. It’s got five vents:

• one directly in front of the wearer’s mouth
• one at the top edge of the visor,
• one high on the front of the helmet (this one has two intake holes),
• two placed on the back of the helmet, high up, one either side)

The vents work together in perfect harmony to create an airflow around your as well as across the inside of the visor to prevent the dreaded fogging. A certain amount of wind noise is inevitable with any vented helmet but, even with five vents the X-Eleven isn’t a “loud” helmet.

Visor System
As with all Shoei helmets the X-Eleven sports their revolutionary, easy-to-use visor system. This system is intuitive and many X-Eleven owners say that, even without looking at the instructions, they could figure it out pretty quickly – no more wrestling with the helmet for an hour to try to change your visor!

Conclusion
If you can afford it, if you’ve got a "Shoei head" you should seriously consider getting one as the X-Eleven is a technoligical marvel and certainly one of the finest helmets on the market today and the quality matches the price. It’s not $50, more like $600 … but then have you got a $50 head or a $600 head?

Tune-ups don’t require ignition coil replacements. Sometimes you need to replace the spark plug caps on the ends of the wires, though. The resistance value should be around 5K ohms. Honda Tune up kits generally has plugs, points and condensers in them, as a set. The number of miles you have on the bike engine and the overall care it has had makes a lot of difference in what you will need and what may keep going for you, for a while.

The tools that came in your kit, if complete, could barely get you by on repairs/tune-ups. If you own a bike, you need to know about how to repair it and have the tools to do the job. You can go to Wal-Mart, Costco and elsewhere and get giant tool packages for $100 or less that will get you going pretty well. An Impact Driver with a selection of bits and a good hammer will be a good investment! Steel screws, resting in aluminum threads for such a long time will setup corrosion in the threads that can spell trouble in some cases.

The cables are now 33 years old…. probably time for a change! If your bike is a 1973 CB350G, then it has a front disk brake that has its own maintenance issues. Same with the CB350F. The "regular" CB350 twins had cable operated drum brakes.

You can get a lot of stuff on Ebay, as far as tune-up parts go. You need to identify the exact model, of course, before you move forward, plus a good tune-up guide and/or shop manual will be useful. I have a PDF version of a minor tune-up guide that is a reprint from a Cycle Guide magazine special booklet, but it only covers CB350 Twins. The principles of engine tuning are all the same, but the details between 2 and 4 cylinder bikes are somewhat different in layout of components.

If you used stabil or some kind of gasoline stabilizer for the winter, the carbs should be okay. I would certainly drain them and refill the tank with fresh gasoline. Yamaha makes a carb cleaner that you mix with gasoline and then funnel down the carb fuel line to clean out the parts in the float bowl while it is together. Depends on what kind of condition the parts are in, though. Honda carbs have numerous O-rings inside that need replacing after 33 years!

What you could do, and it may require some modification on your part, is to find a hard bag mount set for your bike and then go to a motorcycle salvage yard and see what they have that you may like. You would likely have to repaint them, but that requires a wind-free place to work and a bit of light sanding and paint and a few hours.

Alternatively, if you know how to work with fiberglass, you could build the bags you want yourself, but this is a long-term project that will eat up a lot of your spare time to do it quickly. You can also look on a few of the catalogue sites. In addition to that, try some of the e-groups for Kawasaki and Vulcan’s. There are a lot of specialized e-groups out there for specific makes and models of bikes. Look there, as there may be someone who is getting rid of a set that will work on your bike. It will certainly be less expensive than new.

Honda pretty much washes their hands of responsibility of supplying parts after about 10 years after end of production. They have made thousands of different models and dozens of variations of many of those, so the parts inventory and production considerations are staggering in any case.

Honda does have a vintage parts division, apparently in Japan who will make small quantities of some items that they still have tooling for, like exhaust systems for some of the fours. CB750 primarily. CMS in Holland is tied to them, to a certain extent and almost had them remake the missing #2 pipe for the 350Fs but the cost got too high.

Companies like apex cycle, retrobikes and a few others are having Asian companies remake some items. You won’t be seeing any new crankshafts or engine cases coming from Honda or anyone else. Tooling and production of this stuff is way too expensive nowadays. I have a source in Australia who makes new Dream and CB77 mufflers from stainless steel.

It is a small company and he’s willing to do the tooling in-house just to produce the parts, but he’s getting near retiring and that source will dry up one day. A company in NZ made some beautiful new CB77 mufflers a few years back, but the supply is now gone, I believe and they don’t seem interested in doing another run again.

If there is sufficient demand, someone usually steps up and takes a shot at having parts made, but there are so many parts in a bike and so many models, that it is impossible to expect that the supply line for 40+ year old motorcycles is going to continue indefinitely. Brit bikes and scooters remained relatively unchanged for many years, so making parts for those is less of a stretch, than doing Honda camshafts for 250-305s… there were three versions of splines on just those parts.

The first motorcycle was invented by Gottlieb Daimler in 1885. I am not sure what the maximum speed capacity of those first motorcycles was but today in our busy society the speed means a lot. Probably no one even imagined about motorcycle helmets back then with speed not being an issue and the roads not being filled with millions of motor vehicles. But the speed is an issue today and so are the motorcycle helmets.

The first motorcycle helmet was invented by Prof. Charles F. Lombard who developed a unique energy absorbing helmet for the United States Air Force. So, the first motorcycle helmet was not designed as a motorcycle helmet but it was rather designed for aviation. Dr. Lombard patented his unique invention which was applied not only to aviation but also automobile racing, motorcycles, hockey, etc…

As people started growing interest in riding motorcycles and passion for speeding, the fatal injuries also increased. And now some motorcycle helmet standards and mandatory laws were supposed to be put in place to help reduce the number of fatal injuries. In 1957 Snell Memorial Foundation was formed for the purpose of providing independent motorcycle helmet testing. In 1961 the world’s first mandatory motorcycle helmet law was passed on. And finally in 1974 US Department of Transportation (DOT) introduced Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards for motorcycle helmets. Those standards set by DOT made it mandatory for motorcycle helmet manufacturers to put a DOT approved sticker inside every helmet manufactured.

If you or a loved one own a motorcycle and do not have a motorcycle helmet please consider getting one. Sometimes a lot of the people who get into fatal injuries are not even guilty of speeding or reckless driving. They become victims of those other drivers who are speeding, driving recklessly or driving under the influence drugs or alcohol. In those cases wearing a motorcycle helmet makes the difference of life and death. Below you will find links to a great website where you can purchase a reliable, DOT approved motorcycle helmet at discounted price.

With Spring fast approaching I thought it would be a good idea to start publishing a few motorcycle riding tips that you can practice once you dust off your bike and get it ready for Daytona Bike week or your first spring ride. One thing I hear from a lot of motorcyclists is that they have been riding for some many years and do not need to practice any riding skills. This is just an ignorant statement to make and often fueled by ego and pride. I have seen veteran riders of twenty years; do the stupidest things on a motorcycle. Sure they have been riding for twenty years, but have they truly ever learned to really ride correctly with skill and confidence. Sure some have the natural motor skills to perform well on a motorcycle but these refresher tips are there to make you more competent on your motorcycle while also boosting your ego since others will be impressed by your riding skills. Honest, you will be amazed how people notice a good competent rider.

This lesson will discuss Limited-space maneuvers. Now you may think, what? If I am going slow in a parking lot or driveway, why do I need to practice these types of motorcycle riding maneuvers? While not as dangerous as intersections or other road hazards, limited-space maneuvers, like parking areas, can be quite a challenge. Practice turning at low speeds, and do not forget to use the counterweight technique to help balance your motorcycle at slow speeds. This means to put more pressure on the outmost footrest, leaning the upper body outward opposite the turn. You can also move off the center of the seat, opposite from the turn, to improve balance and turning capability.

The best-trained motorcyclists are Police Motormen. These motorcycle cops are trained to maneuver large police motorcycles at slow speeds in tight situations. Police Motormen practice doing U-turns within two marked parking spaces. Sounds easy right? Well it is not. Go out and try it one day. I guarantee it will take you 4 spaces or more to do a U-turn. Odds are some of you may even drop your bike. The trick is to use your clutch friction zone and rear brake to get the motorcycle to maneuver and handle at very slow speeds. By slow speeds I mean under 5MPH. Walking pace. Police need to do this all the time and they have the best riding techniques. The other key is to look where you want the motorcycle to go. If you look down while performing a tight figure eight or a U-turn, I guarantee you will go where you are looking – down.

I initially practiced these techniques and was amazed at how difficult it was to turn your motorcycle around by performing a U-turn while trying to keep the turn within two parking spaces. It took me several hours over a few days to get the hang of it. Next I added in figure eights and slow crawl riding as if I were in a parade. As my skill improved with this technique and my rear brake and clutch were showing signs of wear, I become very confident that I could handle my motorcycle in tight situations.

The benefits of practicing this riding technique are that you become more skilled with handling your motorcycle. If you find you are on a narrow country road, you will have the confidence to know that you can safely and skillfully perform a U-turn in the limited space provided. While attending motorcycle events where parking is at a premium, this slow speed practice will help you maneuver threw the crowded parking lot without smashing into and pedestrians or parked motorcycles. Again, I found myself using this skill set a lot. Other motorcyclists noticed my skill. They were amazed that I could maneuver a large Victory Kingpin in the limited spaces. Even when carrying a passenger. So dust off your motorcycle and dust of your stale riding techniques and hit the nearest vacant parking lot for some much needed practice.

Here are some tips for parking safely:

- If parking in a parallel parking space next to a curb, position the motorcycle at an angle with the rear wheel to the curb.
- If using the side stand, turn the handlebars to the left for added stability; lock the forks for security.
- The feet on sides and center stands can sink into soft surfaces causing the motorcycle to fall. To prevent this, carry a flattened aluminum can or similar rigid object to put under the stand.
- Park the motorcycle in first gear for extra stability, particularly if on an incline.

This past weekend, I installed new spark plugs in my Toyota truck. So while it is fresh in my mind I wanted to cover the basics of how to read a spark plug, from the point of view of weekend mechanic.

First let’s cover the basic functions of the spark plug.

The spark plug has two primary functions:

1. Ignite air/fuel mixture
2. Transfer heat from the combustion chamber

Now that you know what a spark plug does, lets discuss how to remove the plugs.

This may be common sense, but please allow the engine and exhaust to cool down prior to performing this task.

1. With the engine cooled, disconnect the spark plug wire caps where they connect to the plug inside the cylinder head. My advice is to very gently pull of the wire caps. On one set I yanked at the wire cap and stripped out the inside. This was dumb, but it allowed me to buy a nice set of red wires.

2. With the spark plug wire caps removed, I suggest cleaning out the area around the plug. The best way to do this is with compressed air to blow out the debris and crud that has accumulated. Please leave the plug in for this, the idea is that you want to remove the crud so it does not fall into the cylinder head when you extract the plug.

3. Grab your spark plug socket, I forget the correct size for the Victory plug, and remove the plug. It does not take much to loosen the plug since they are only tightened with 12 lb-ft (Foot Pounds) of torque.

4. Now is the time to perform basic inspection of the plug. A plug is the best indicator on how well your engine is performing.

First check for the following:

a. worn out electrodes
b. check the insulators for cracks
c. and check the color of the insulator.

As mentioned, the spark plug insulator color gives you an indication of how well your freedom engine is operating.

INSULATOR COLOR

- A light to light tan/gray color … Condition is: GOOD. This light tan/gray color tells you that the spark plug is operating at optimum temperature and that the engine is in good condition.
- If the insulator is white .. Condition is LEAN and engine is running hot.
- When the insulator has a black sooty deposit or looks wet … You have an Over-RICH condition and possible Oil control problems.

Installing the Spark Plugs

Whether you are replacing or installing a new spark plug, always check the spark plug cap with a gap or wire gauge. The gap specification is: 0.8mm (0.032in).

I run the NGK CPR6EA-9 spark plugs in my 204 Kingpin. 2003 Vegas bikes use model: NGK CR7EB

If you are disciplined, you will put anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads. I never have, but it is suggested.

The torque specifications for the plugs are: 16Nm or 12 lb-ft (Foot Pounds)

I hope this article has provided you with the basics on how to read the spark plugs from your motorcycle. Note that the same principle of reading the spark plug coloration applies to all engines, not just motorcycle engines.

Buying a mini bike on line is becoming the preferred approach for many mini bike users. It allows you to buy a mini bike very easily and quickly and often mini bikes on line are cheaper then those in the stores. However there are certain things you should ensure.

Firstly, make sure you know exactly what you are buying, it may be better to see if they have a showroom or warehouse where you can check the bikes out before you buy them if you are unsure. All good mini bike sites will give a good description of the bikes you can buy, as well as the exact specification.

If you are purchasing a mini bike from a well established reputable on line dealer then it is likely that there will be no problems, as they will be honest about the bike and often offer a warranty of some kind as well as free shipping.

Used Mini bikes

There are many places to buy a used mini bike on line, the main source of used mini bikes on line is Ebay. Make sure you are cautious when buying a bike from somewhere like this. I would always try to go see the bike before you buy.

Many people will be dishonest about their mini bikes, make sure that the bike your getting is exactly how it is described and if not then don’t feel pressured to buy it. If you are buying from Ebay then make sure you check the buyers feedback to make sure that they can be trusted.

In store

This is the safest method of buying a mini bike, you get to see the bike before you buy (sometimes you will be allowed to test ride it) and therefore you know exactly if that is the bike you want. However some stores may be more expensive to buy from than on line but you do get the buyers protection as you will always have somewhere to take the bike if something goes wrong.

Dull grey skies today, a steady heavy rain, poor visibility. An opportunity to impress the crowd with a textbook demonstration of wet weather riding skills.

Starting with hardware. Motorcycle in good condition, especially tyres, the grooves good and deep to channel away water, no letting them wear flat with constant upright motorway riding, no messing about trying to extend their life because they look okayish. A helmet that won’t mist up. Clothes waterproof and breathable, they’re four years old now, never had any maintenance, I can ride through a downpour all day and not have a speck of moisture on me, miracle of modern fabrics. No trivial matter, comfort, a safety issue, you can tough stuff out for a while but it wears you down, you need your attention on staying alive not whether your feet are cold. Hi viz belts and bands, you can’t tell how many times you stay alive because some unnoticed driver sees you and doesn’t mow you down, but over time it’ll be quite a few.

Fifty percent increase in the safety bubble in front. Partly to stay out of the spray. Partly because braking distances are longer. Partly because if there’s trouble, you don’t brake, you accelerate. Braking puts the weight on the unstable front wheel, accelerating puts it on the stable back wheel. So you need space to accelerate into. Also, ride in a lower gear, use it to slow down without braking or accelerate without delaying.

Be real careful changing lanes, cars often leave their headlights off and they’re damn near invisible. Otherwise don’t worry about what’s behind you, let the hi viz stuff protect you there, concentrate on the trouble up front.

Ten mph slower than normal. That’s the deal. If you abrogate speeding limits to your own judgement, your position is a lot more compelling if you sometimes go slower, not always faster.

The game is, every time you hold back, you get a gold star. Here’s a gap I’d normally take, not today, one gold star. That doesn’t mean you have to be cowed and subdued, in fact often in the rain there’s an even greater need to filter past stuck traffic, just do it with less relish. Then collect the gold stars. But any rashness or impetuosity, all gold stars cancelled, start again.

Ten minutes later than normal for work, but a half hour margin allowed anyway, just for such contingencies. And about fifteen gold stars. Good start to the day.

Motorcycle riders use a number of motorcycle accessories like helmets, jackets, gloves etc. which can protect them from injuries in case of any accident. Motorcycle gloves are one of the most important accessories for motorcycle riders.

Motorcycle gloves have much wider utility as compared to ordinary leather gloves that are just used to keep hands during winter and to maintain grip. Motorcycle gloves act as jackets for hands and in case of any accident they take the hit instead of our precious hands. The palms of hands have number of nerves and blood vessels and if we imagine your bare outstretched hands hitting the concrete and sliding at speed, we will clearly understand the importance of motorcycle gloves.

Gloves come in many styles, colors and materials. So one can choose a glove according to his/her choice and need. Mesh or perforated leather gloves are best suited for people who ride in warm weather these gloves offer ventilation to keep hands cool and thus one won’t tempted to ride without gloves. Water-resistant gloves are suited for people who ride during rain. Rain gloves that cover regular glove when those downpours hit are also available. Manufacturers are providing wide varieties of gloves of various shapes, size, and colors depending on the choice of the consumer. While shopping for a glove one can even look for glove that offer good knuckle protection. Gloves should have metal or plastic armor over the knuckle area. A heavy duty palm with Kevlar, metal or thick leather will provide protection to one’s hand. Number of brands are available in market so no matter which glove one decide to purchase, one must make sure to wear gloves all of the time.

Modern sporting motorcycles can come with a near dizzying array of suspension adjustability. Pre-load, compression damping, rebound, high-speed damping, low-speed damping, etc. Where to start?

Before you start looking over your bike to see what we’re talking about, please note this article is primarily intended for the sport bike rider. Most cruisers have little or no suspension adjustability. You either live with what the factory gave you, you have your suspension components upgraded with after market units, or have the internal bits replaced by a professional.

The easiest and most important adjustment you can make is to set the static sag. Sag is just what it sounds like – how much the bike sags when you’re on it.

Ideally your sag should be from 25 to 30 mm, or 1 to 1 ½ inches, on most bikes. To find out where your sag is, you’ll need a helper. Dress up in all your usual riding apparel, including helmet, leathers, boots, etc. You want to set your sag using the same weight as when you ride. While standing next to the bike, push down on the tail once or twice to make sure the suspension is at its normal resting position.

Using a dowel rod, yard stick, or similar device, measure the distance from the ground to a particular point on the motorcycle. Turn signals or a point on the seat or frame will work fine. Just make sure the point you measure from is not covered up when you’re on the bike. OK, got the measurement? Either write down the measurement (in inches or millimeters) or simply mark the spot on your rod/stick.

Now get on the motorcycle, in full gear. This is where your helper is needed. For the most accurate measurement, try to hold the bike fully vertical with both your feet on the pegs. In this position, take another measurement. See the difference? That is your sag. If it’s smaller than 1 inch or greater than 1 ½ inches, you’ll need to adjust the pre-load on your forks and/or shock to get the desired results. Increase pre-load (usually a clockwise turn of the adjusting screw or collar) a little at a time to reduce your sag. Decreasing pre-load will increase the amount your bike sags.

Adjusting rebound and compression damping is considerably more complicated, and requires riding your bike and trying different settings over time. More compression damping in front reduces the amount your bike will dive under braking. More in the back will reduce how much the rear end squats under power. Too much compression damping can cause the bike to ride rough, transmitting every bump in the road to you without absorbing much. If you’re only riding on a smooth racetrack, more compression damping might be a good thing. If you ride on gnarly back roads, you’ll probably want to soften up your settings.

Rebound damping affects how much your wheels "bounce" off the brakes and wallow under power. Too much rebound damping and your suspension will not react fast enough to properly follow bumps in the road. Your forks or shock can get "packed down" by repeated bumps, which reduces your suspension travel and can lead to a very poor ride, or worse. Too little rebound damping in the front or rear and your bike will be wallowing around like a ’68 Cadillac, making it very unpleasant and hard to control.

Your mission is to find the right balance for you and your riding style. Generally it’s best to start out with the settings your bike came with from the factory. There’s a reason why they’re set where they are. From there, spend a little time on the bike. Is it too stiff? Does it wallow? Pay attention to how the different ends of the bike feel. Adjust accordingly, but not too much. We suggest adjusting in increments of one click at a time, until you find the sweet spot you’re looking for.

Once you get your favorite settings dialed in, you can start playing around with them a little at different times. For example, you might want to tighten things up a bit for a fast track day at California Speedway. Or you might want to loosen them up a notch or 2 if you’re planning to ride Carmel Valley Road (ask me how I know!). Whether or not you choose to leave the settings alone or make occasional adjustments, making your motorcycle handle better for you and your riding style can lower lap times, and will definitely enhance your riding enjoyment.

So, you’ve decided to buy a Harley. Excellent. Owning a Harley Davidson motorcycle is like having your very own slice of the American dream. You know the one, the one that involves having a ’57 Chevy or an original Ford Mustang. It gives you a feeling that really is hard to explain, but you feel the pride of ownership from your rear-end sitting comfortably in the saddle all the way to your fingertips as you twist the throttle. You feel it from the sound of those pipes going blap, blap, blap down the road to seeing kids and/or adults waving at you as you pass by on a long stretch of country road.

Unfortunately, buying a Harley at a dealership can be a daunting task. The pressure you get from the salesmen can sometimes scare you right back out the front door. It’s not their fault, they are simply trying to make a living. Heck, most of them are paid by 100% commission. If they don’t sell, they don’t eat and unfortunately our bodies require food every day to get by in life. So what do you do, you want to make sure that you’re getting a good deal, but you don’t know how to negotiate. The sales staff knows which bikes to push at you that have the highest commissions for them; but is this the right bike for you, maybe, maybe not. Is it the right bike for them, darn tootin’.

Well, you’ve arrived at the right place. Why, because I have written a guide that will help you navigate your way through the sales sharks. I call them sharks ‘cause I used to be one. If it was a slow day with 4 or 5 of us waiting for a customer to come through the door, we felt like hungry sharks in deep water waiting on a big fish to come our way. My book is going to teach you all the insider secrets to buy a Harley and save money at the same time.

How many times have you wished that you knew all the ins-and-outs when buying a new or used car? How many times have you left an automobile dealership wondering if you truly got a good deal on your trade-in or purchase? How many times have you been patted on the back by the salesman as you left a car dealership making you wonder if he should have kissed you too?

This is the only 100%, no holds barred truth a/b trading, purchasing and financing a Harley that you will ever find. How do I know? I LOOKED. Sure, there are other books on purchasing a Harley, but not from a salesman’s perspective. I have been there-done that and I’m passing what I have learned to you.

Before you sign the bottom line, you must read this e-book. Simply stated, spend $9.95, save $1000, $1500, $2000 or more. It’s your choice. Simply go to www.howtobuyaharley.com. Good hunting.

The next step to getting a full motorbike licence is to pass the motorcycle theory test. Finally, you must successfully complete a motorcycle practical test. If you pass the practical test you will be issued with your full motorcycle licence.

There are some situations in which you are exempt from having to do the CBT and the motorcycle theory test. There are also different types of motorcycle licences. I will cover the options in detail.

Provisional Motorcycle Licence

If you are 17 or over, you can obtain a provisional motorcycle licence by submitting an application to the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA). The application form is called the D1 form and you can pick one up at your local Post Office. Alternatively you can request the form from the DVLA itself. You can also apply online for your provisional motorcycle licence on the DVLA website. After you receive your provisional motorcycle licence, you may only start riding on the road upon completing your CBT. Note that if you have a full car driving licence, then you probably have a provisional motorcycle entitlement on that licence – check it for category A provisional entitlement to find out.

There are a few situations in which you will already have a provisional motorcycle licence through having gotten a full car driving licence or a moped licence. For these and the exact process of applying including how to apply, the fees and payment methods, photographs and the identification requirements

Compulsory asic Training – CBT

You must do your CBT before you are allowed to ride on the road. The CBT is a day of motorcycle training which teaches you the basics of how to ride and highlights safety matters. No previous motorcycling experience is needed when doing your CBT. You can book the CBT at one of many DSA approved training companies all around the UK.

Upon completing your CBT, you will be issued with a DL196 certificate which is valid for two years and validates your provisional motorcycle licence. You can now ride any light motorcycle, which is any bike with:

• an engine capacity of no more than 125cc
• a power output of no higher than 11 kW (14.6 bhp)
• the motorbike must have L plates (D plates in Wales) front and back
• you cannot carry a passenger on the pillion
• you may not ride no motorways

Exemption from doing the CBT

• A DL196 certificate validates any provisional motorcycle licence that you hold. So if you did your CBT to validate your provisional moped licence (provisional category P entitlement) and you then turn 17 and get a provisional motorbike licence (provisional category A entitlement) then you do not have to redo your CBT because your single valid DL196 certificate validates both of the provisional entitlements.
• If you have a full moped license and you passed it on or after 1 December 1990, then you can ride a light motorcycle without having to do the CBT (with L plates, no passengers and no motorways)

Motorcycle Theory Test

Once you have a provisional motorcycle licence you can go for your motorcycle theory test. The theory test is conducted at your local DSA testing centre. The theory test comprises of a multiple choice test and a hazard perception test. Both are done on touch screens and have a time limit. When you’ve passed the theory test you can book your motorcycle practical test.

Exemption from doing the Motorcycle Theory Test

• If you gained a full moped licence after 1 July 1996 and you did the motorcycle theory test as part of getting the licence, then you can book your motorcycle practical test without having to do the theory test again.
• If you have a full moped licence (category P entitlement) because you got your driving licence before 1 February 2001, you will still have to do the motorcycle theory test because you did not do it as part of getting your full moped licence – the car theory test and the motorcycle theory test are to distinct examinations!
• If you hold a full light motorcycle licence and you want to upgrade to a standard motorcycle licence, then you are exempt from the motorbike theory test again and can simply book your practical test. Same goes if you are upgrading from an automatics only licence.

Practical Motorcycle Test

The practical tests for any full motorbike licence, be it moped, light motorcycle, standard motorcycle, Accelerated Access or DAS are basically the same. It is only the size of the bike that you are tested on that varies depending on which one of the licences you are going for.

Light Motorcycle Licence (Category A1)

To get you full light motorcycle licence you must complete the light motorcycle practical test. The test is done on a bike with an engine capacity between 75cc and 125cc and a max speed exceeding 63 mph (100kph). This licence allows you to ride any motorcycle with an engine capacity of up to 125cc with a maximum power output of 11kW (14.6 bhp). You don’t need L plates anymore, you can carry a pillion passenger and you can ride on the motorway.

Standard Motorcycle Licence (Category A)

To get a standard motorcycle licence you must complete the standard motorcycle practical test. Your riding skills will be tested on a motorcycle with an engine capacity between 120cc and 125cc and a max speed exceeding 63 mph (100kph). If you pass the test you will get a restricted full motorcycle licence, also called a category A2 licence. This licence allows you to ride without the L plates, to carry a pillion passenger and to use the motorways. For the first two years you will be allowed to ride any motorcycle up to 25kW (33 bhp) or a power weight ratio of no greater than 0.16kW/kg. When this two year probation period is over, you can ride any size bike regardless of your age.

Accelerated Access

If you turn 21 and you are in the two year restricted period of your full motorcycle licence (category A2 licence) then you can use the Accelerated Access option to get the 25 kW bike restriction removed. This involves taking your practical motorcycle test again, but on a motorbike with a power output of at least 35 kW (46.6 bhp). If you pass you will get a full standard motorcycle licence and can ride any size bike. If you fail your A2 licence is still valid.

Direct Access Scheme (DAS)

If you are 21 or older then you can choose to take the standard motorcycle test on a motorbike of at least 35 kW. If you pass the test you are issued a full motorcycle licence with no restrictions and can ride any size motorcycle.

Routes to Your Motorbike Licence

Are you thinking about buying a brand new motorcycle that you have always dreamed about? Apart from the power and speed that the motorcycle possesses, another very important thing that everyone looks for in a good motorcycle is a comfortable seat. Different kinds of motorcycles are equipped with different kinds of seats. The comfort of the seat determines the how convenient the journey would be. Imagine being on a long distance journey on your motorcycle, with a seat that is so uncomfortable that you hardly sit for a short while, without getting tired. Wouldn’t that be quite annoying?

There are many different types of motorcycle seats. Most of the seats of the motorcycles are made from leather. However, there are many custom made seats that are made from exotic skins, like elephant skin, alligator skin, shark skins, ostrich skin and many others. The custom motorcycle seats are made according to the customer’s specification and preference.

The motive behind creating custom motorcycle seats is to increase the comfort level of the rider and make the journey a smooth one. A comfortable motorcycle seat is responsible for increasing the riding pleasure. In order to make the motorcycle seat much more comfortable, there are a number of motorcycle seat covers that are available in the market. These seat covers are installed on top of the seat, making it a lot more comfy. The collection of the seat covers ranges from sheep skin covers, cobra skin covers, and many more.

Besides the seat covers, there are other means too which make the motorcycle seat more comfortable. There are special seat cushions that help the riders to ride longer, as well as in a lot more comfort and style.

There are also special gel motorcycle seats that are the perfect solution to an uncomfortable seating scenario. It provides an easing sensation, as it allows some movements. This makes a great deal of difference in the duration for which a rider can sit on the motorcycle. Gel pads are made from molded gel that is generally used in sports and medical applications. On an average a 3/4 inch thick layer of gel is used in these seat pads. The reason behind the comfort that gel seats provide is the fact that it eliminates the pressure points that usually cause the discomfort. The gel base absorbs the vibrations that occur as the motorcycle moves over the surface of the roads. A unique feature of this gel is that it can be cooled or preheated to suit the adverse weather conditions.

So, with all the range of seat accessories available for your convenience, you have a large variety to choose from. If you are tired of your old motorcycle seat, give your bike a new life by getting a high quality seat cover, and make your motorcycle ride enjoyable.

Moped Licence If you have reached the age of 16 you can get a moped licence. Before you can start riding a moped on the road, you must first get your provisional moped licence and then complete your compulsory basic training (CBT). You can then start riding a moped on the road as a learner with some restrictions in place e.g. your moped must have L plates. A moped is any motorcycle which has:

* an engine capacity of no greater than 50cc
* a max speed of 31 mph (50 kph)
* a weight no more than 250kg

The next step towards getting your full moped licence is the motorcycle theory test. When you’ve passed this test you can book your practical moped test. Success in the practical moped test will get you a full moped licence (also called a full category P entitlement). This allows you to ride your moped without the provisional licence restrictions.

Provisional Moped Licence

To get a provisional moped licence, you must submit an application to the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA). You can do this by applying online or by post. If you want to apply by post, you can get the provisional licence application form (the D1 form) at your local post office or from the DVLA itself. The fee for your provisional licence is £38.00. When you receive your provisional licence you may not ride on the road until you complete your CBT.

For more details on the exact process of applying for your provisional moped licence, including the required fees and payment methods, the identification process and the required photographs.

Compulsory Basic Training – CBT

The CBT is a day’s training in the basics of riding a motorcycle. You must have a provisional licence to do your CBT. You do not need any previous motorcycling experience to do your CBT. You can do your CBT at any DSA approved training body. There are many such training bodies all over the UK, see my directory.

After completing the CBT you will get a DL196 certificate which validates your provisional moped licence. Your DL196 certificate is valid for two years. Your provisional moped licence and valid DL196 certificate allow you to ride any moped on the road, but with the following restrictions in place:

• Your moped must have L plates (D plates in Wales)
• You may not ride with a passenger on the pillion
• You cannot ride on motorways

Exceptions to applying for a Provisional Licence or doing the CBT

• If your full car driving licence was issued before 1 Feb 2001, then you already have a full moped entitlement on that licence (full category P entitlement), so you are not legally required to do the CBT and can ride a moped without restrictions. I strongly urge you to do the CBT anyway as it is proven to significantly reduce the number of accidents that new riders have!
• If you passed your car driving licence from 1 Feb 2001 onwards, then you do not need to apply for a provisional moped licence as your driving licence was issued with a full category P entitlement. However you must do your CBT to validate the moped entitlement on that licence. Once you’ve completed the CBT you have a full moped licence and can ride mopeds without the learner rider restrictions. The DL196 certificate that you receive from doing your CBT in this case only expires with your driving licence when you turn 70.

Motorcycle Theory Test

If you have a provisional category P entitlement and you have done your CBT then you can go for your full moped licence. This is a good idea because your CBT certificate expires after two years and redoing it wastes time and money.

To get your full moped licence you must first pass the motorcycle theory at a Driving Standards Agency (DSA) test centre. You must pass the motorcycle theory test before you can book your practical moped test. For exact details on the theory test including how to prepare

Practical Moped Test

The last test is the practical moped test. During this test an examiner will examine your riding skills on the road. If you pass you will be issued with a full category P entitlement which means you can toss the L plates and carry a pillion passenger.

The Routes to Your Licence

This can be a little overwhelming considering the choices of material, quality and brands available in the market. Here are some things you should know (that might save your skin or life!) before you make your purchase:

1) Your motorcycle shop should be your first place to start your shopping, If you’re buying a bike, see if can get the clothing into the financing deal. This way, you can negotiate a better deal and do not have to pay up front for the gears.

2) Get a full set of motorcycle clothing which includes helmet, jacket, boots, pants, gloves and glasses. A complete set gives you complete protection. Why would you want to risk any parts of your body with injuries? Each piece of the clothing plays an important role in protecting the specific part of the body they are supposed to.

3) Aesthetics should always be secondary to protective quality. If you have to choose between looking good and having your fingers or toes intact after a ride, what would it be? The answer is obvious, but try to go for bright colored clothing as it is shown in a study that wearing eye catching gear reduces the risk of having an accident significantly (up to 37%!). However, finding motorcycle clothing which also looks good is very much a possibility with the amount of gear out there from so many manufacturers.

4) Buy clothing that offers superior protection to areas of the body where the bone is just below the surface of the skin e.g. knuckles shoulders, hips, knees and ankles. Try to look for clothing that has added thick body armor stitched on these areas. Protect areas more vulnerable to injuries; an obvious and sensible choice to make.

5) Explore other options besides leather. Leather has over the years been proven to be the best material for motorcycle protective clothing, due to its resistance to tear, its natural warmth, and its acting as a first layer of defense, coming between the biker and the rough asphalt road. Although it’s the more common materials, it is by no means the only choice. Protective clothing from man-made textile is becoming popular and may be more suited for certain weather and conditions (e.g. Cordura, Kevlar).

6) Be prepared to fall. Consider adding other impact protection gear: Extra impact protection can be bought separately like back protectors. For an important area like your back, it might just save your life! If you worry that you may forget to put the extra gear on, buy clothing that already has a degree of impact protection included.

7) Be sure to check out the internet to look for great deals. It’s a vast marketplace to shop for the clothing. You can compare prices and qualities from different brands and manufacturers, as well as read reviews from other buyers. There are some pretty good deals lying around waiting for you to discover, so do some research online.

Essentials of the Direct Access Scheme

* Most motorcycle schools will offer a free evaluation if it has been a while since you completed your CBT

* The DAS will run from 3 days – 6 days depending on your experience

* Most motorcycle schools will offer a guaranteed pass with the 6 day course; however I would recommend clarifying this before you book

* It’s not cheap, so set aside about £300 for the 3 day, and add an extra £100 for each day you add onto that

* The price should include insurance, bike hire and test fees

* Don’t forget that there is a requirement that you are able to read a number plate at 20.5 meters

* Don’t forget to take your theory test & provisional licence with you

Essentials of the Accelerated Access Scheme

* This is for riders who have already obtained a standard category A license and turn 21 before the two year qualifying period is complete who want to qualify to be allowed to ride all motorcycles

* This is the licence you receive once passing the Practical Test on a 125, allowing you to discard L plates, ride on motorways and carry pillion passengers. You are limited to a machine of 33bhp for two years, and then this restriction falls away and without doing anything further, you can ride what you like

* A rider can prepare for this test on motorcycles above 25kW if accompanied by a certified motorcycle instructor on another motorcycle

* ’L’ plates need to be displayed while preparing for the test on motorcycles above 25kW

* The CBT or any other theory test does not need to be taken again
Essentials of the Advanced Training

There are many advantages to advanced training courses such as:

* Improving your riding skills will mean that you will get more enjoyment when out riding
* Your improved riding ability will mean less wear and tear on your bike
* You will be better much safer on the road
* The will be more in control and so will get more out of your motorcycle
* Your insurance premiums are often lowered
* Advanced training courses vary from improving your riding skills to becoming a full blown advanced instructor

* Most motorcycle schools will offer to access your training needs so that you are in a better position to agree a course tailored to strengthen your skill

Dirt Biking has always been a popular sport among the young and old alike but in recent years, more and more kids, elderly people and women are taking up dirt bike riding as a recreational sport. Now, how does this translate into a viable business for a dirt bike dealer? A big market to tap into, of course! Many people want to enter the dirt bike dealership business but hesitate because lack knowledge about the dirt biking industry.

But now we know that the market for dirt bike dealership is HUGE. One thing you have to bear in mind, if you’re looking around for a dirt bike manufacturer, is that you have to find one that produces top quality dirt bikes! No two ways about it. The reason is because you want to bring only high quality dirt bikes to your customers and if the dirt bike manufacturer produces low quality dirt bikes, you won’t be able to retain your regular dirt bike customers.

If you take a look around at some of the dirt bike dealers around your area, you’ll notice that most of them offer small dirt bikes made for young kids as young as 4-years-old. Yes, that is how young dirt bike fans are getting these days. Many dirt bike dealers also hold a lot of dirt bikes designed for ladies who keen on taking up the sport.

Opening a dirt bike retail shop is an important step and it’s essential to your business that you develop a stable and long-lasting working relationship with your preferred ATV manufacturer. Having a stable source for your dirt bike supply ensures the smooth-flowing running of your business. When you get regular dirt bike customers coming to your store, they do expect a certain level of consistency in your supply.

Upon checking and confirming that the dirt bike manufacturer is reliable, it wouldn’t be wise to sign on the dotted line without going through the contract with a lawyer. This ensures that if there are loopholes in the contract, it can be fixed right from the start. For a business relationship for your dirt bike business to go on properly, you should ensure that there’s constant communication between you as a dirt bike dealer and the manufacturer. There should be someone responsible for your account and the communication should always be prompt.

As you can see, there are many intricate details regarding your dirt bike dealing business to iron out before you sign a contract with a dirt bike manufacturer. As long as you nail as many potential problems as possible right from the start, your dirt bike dealing business should be a profitable and prosperous one.

If you are going for your full moped licence then you can take the test on bike with automatic or manual transmission – a scooter or a moped. Either way, you will get your full moped licence if you pass the test and be allowed to ride both scooters and mopeds regardless of transmission type.

A full moped licence allows you to ride any motorcycle with:

* an engine capacity no greater than 50cc
* a max speed of 31 mph (50 kph)
* weight not exceeding 250kg

You can carry a passenger on the pillion, but only if there is an appropriate seat and foot rests for the passenger. It is not legal to ride a moped on motorways, even if you have a full moped entitlement.

If you already have a full motorcycle licence then you can ride a moped without restrictions – a moped is just a class of motorcycle with low power output.
Category A1 – Full Light Motorcycle Licence

If you are happy to stick to riding a 125cc motorbike, then you can do your practical motorcycle test on a motorbike with:

* An engine capacity between 75cc and 125cc
* A max speed of at least 63 mph (100 kph)

A full light motorcycle licence allows you to ride any motorbike with:

* An engine capacity not exceeding 125cc
* A max power output of 11 kW (14.6 bhp)

You can carry a pillion passenger and you can ride on motorways.
Category A2 and Category A – Standard Motorcycle Licence

If you are 17 or older but have not turned 21 yet or you are 21 or older but are not interested in getting your standard motorcycle licence via the Direct Access route, then you must do your practical motorcycle test on a motorcycle with:

* an engine between 120 cc and 125 cc
* a max speed of at least 63 mph (100 kph)

If you pass the practical motorcycle test you will receive a restricted standard motorcycle licence, also known as a category A2 motorcycle licence. This licence allows you to ride any motorcycle with a power output not exceeding 25 kW (33 bhp) and a power weight ratio not exceeding 0.16 kW / kg for two years. You will not need L plates anymore and you can carry a passenger on the pillion and can use the motorways.

After the two year restricted period your category A2 licence becomes a full category A motorcycle licence and you can ride any size motorcycle. Note that it does not matter if the two year restricted period comes to an end and you have not turned 21 yet – you still get your full category A entitlement.

The practical motorcycle test for a full category A standard motorcycle licence is done on a motorcycle with a power output of at least 35 kW (46.6 bhp). You can only take this test via the Accelerated Access option or Direct Access Scheme.
Accelerated Access

If you got your standard motorcycle licence and are in the two year restricted bike size period (you have a category A2 restricted motorcycle licence) then the accelerated access option becomes available when you are 21 or older. With accelerated access you take your practical motorcycle test again, but on a motorcycle with a power output of at least 35 kW (46.6 bhp). If you pass the practical motorcycle test you get your full category A entitlement and can ride any size bike from then on. If you fail the practical motorcycle test your category A2 licence remains valid.
Direct Access Scheme (DAS)

If you are 21 or older then you can get your full motorcycle licence via the Direct Access Scheme. You get your provisional licence and then do your CBT and motorcycle theory test just like everyone else, but do your practical motorcycle test on a bike with a power output of at least 35 kW (46.6 bhp).

If you pass your practical motorcycle test via the Direct Access Scheme you are issued with a full category A standard motorcycle licence and can ride any size bike. The usual two year restricted motorcycle licence will not come into play.
Practicing for an Accelerated Access or Direct Access Scheme Test

You can practice for your Accelerated Access or DAS test on a bike that’s larger than the size you are currently permitted to use by riding under the supervision of a qualified instructor who is in radio contact with you. You will need to have L plates, keep off motorways and wear some high visibility gear.
Automatic & Manual Transmission

You can take your practical motorcycle test on a motorbike with automatic transmission.

If you pass your moped practical test on automatic bike, then you can ride both automatics (scooters) and manual transmission mopeds.

However if you obtain your category A1, A2 or A full motorcycle licence by doing the practical motorcycle test on an automatic bike, then you are restricted to riding automatic motorcycles only.

If you have a full automatic motorcycle licence then you can ride a light motorcycle with manual transmission as a learner (bike up to 125cc with L plates, no passenger or motorways). You can then do the practical motorcycle test on a motorcycle with manual transmission to get a licence allowing you to ride manual motorcycles.

Booking Your Practical Motorcycle Test

Before you can do your practical motorcycle or moped test you must first pass the motorcycle theory test. To book your practical motorcycle test you need:

• The relevant provisional licence – a provisional moped licence, a provisional motorcycle licence or a full car driving licence with a provisional category A entitlement
• A valid DL196 certificate – from completing your compulsory basic training
• A valid motorcycle theory test pass certificate

If you got your full moped licence since 1 Dec 1990 by doing the motorcycle theory test and moped practical test then you do need a DL196 certificate.

If you got your full moped licence on or after 1 Jul 1996, and you did the motorcycle theory test as part of getting your moped licence, then you do not need a theory test pass certificate.

You do not need a DL196 certificate or a theory test pass certificate if you are upgrading from a lower category motorcycle licence to a higher category one e.g. if you are upgrading from a category A1 to a category A licence or if you are upgrading from an automatics only licence.

Preparing for your Practical Motorcycle Test

During your practical test the examiner will test your riding ability. The manoeuvres used to test you are described in the next section and I suggest that you practice them often. You must also prepare for two ’show me, tell me’ questions. You can do this by memorising the questions and answers – given below in the next section. Finally you will be asked a question about carrying pillion passenger. You can find examples of these in the next section to help you prepare.

What Happens At Your Practical Motorcycle Test

What to Bring to the Practical Test

You must have a motorcycle to perform your test on. The motorcycle must be:

• Suited to the type of practical test that you are doing – See the Types of Tests and Licences section above for the kind of bike that suits your test
• Insured – so you must have proof of insurance
• Licensed – the bike must have a valid road tax disc
• Fitted with L plates
• If the bike is more than 3 years old, you also need proof of MOT status

Note that if you are getting your licence with the help of a training company, then they will usually be able to provide you with an appropriate motorcycle for your practical test.

You must remember to take your:

• Relevant Licence
  Provisional moped licence for the moped test
  Provisional motorcycle licence or full driving licence with category A entitlement for a motorcycle test
• You must take both your photo ID card and its paper counter part or you will not be allowed to take the practical test. If you have a paper only licence then you must take your passport along as well
• Practical motorcycle test appointment letter
• Motorcycle theory test pass certificate (if you are not exempt)
• DL 196 certificate (if you are not exempt)
• Motorcycle helmet

The practical motorcycle test was designed to test whether you can ride confidently and safely on the road.

Test Exercises

When you hit the road, the examiner will ride behind you on a motorcycle or in a car. Apart from assessing your general riding skills and adherence to traffic laws and sings, you will also need to complete a set of special exercises. The examiner will explain each exercise to you before you have to perform it.

The exercises you will have to perform are:

• An emergency stop – the examiner will be on foot for this one and will give you a signal to stop. You must apply both brakes and come to a halt as quickly as possible without locking your wheels
• Walking with the motorcycle – you must walk your motorcycle and show that you can use its stand properly
• A U turn – the U turn will be performed on the road, so proper observation is crucial. Don’t put your foot down during the turn!
• A hill start – you must pull away smoothly
• An angled start – this is done from a parked position and the key is forward and backward observation
• Slow riding – this is to test your balance and handling of the bike at slow speeds

Tips to Help You Pass Your Practical Motorcycle Test

• Shake off the nerves and ride with confidence. The key is ride naturally, safely and alertly
• Rehearse the exercises so that you can perform them with confidence. It is also imperative to show adequate control over your motorcycle during the exercises
• Do not put a foot down whilst executing the U turn – ask for another chance of this happens, you might get lucky
• Make it clear that you are doing your observations (look over your shoulder). You must not fail to make essential rear observations when turning, doing U turns, changing lanes or approaching roundabouts
• Keep an eye out for hazards like pedestrians crossing the road etc
• Show sound judgement with your following distances and reactions to changes in traffic density
• Do not ride too slowly or take to long to move off during the test. You will be penalised if you ride at an overly cautious speed which doesn’t match the flow of traffic. Riding in an anxious manner shows a lack of confidence in your own ability
• You must comply with all road signs and traffic procedures, so stay sharp. You must be aware what speed zone you are at all times, so don’t miss a sign showing a change in speed limit. Failure to react will constitute a fail
• Make sure you turn off your indicator light! An indicator which just keeps going can get you into a dangerous situation by confusing other road users. The examiner will fail you if such a situation arises

The examiner does not expect you to ride 100% perfectly, but more then 15 minor faults or 1 major fault and it’s a fail. A major fault is when you get yourself into a potentially dangerous situation. Note that repeatedly making the same minor mistake will also constitute a major mistake before the 15 minor mistake limit is reached.

Pillion Question

At the end of the practical motorcycle test you will also be asked at least one question about riding with a pillion passenger or a load:

• What must your motorcycle have to make it legal to carry a passenger?
  The bike must have foot rests and a suitable seat for the passenger. The passenger must wear a proper motorcycle helmet which is British Standards Approved.
• What should you tell your pillion passenger before you head off?
  The passenger must straddle the bike facing forwards with their feet on the foot rests
  They must hold firmly onto the grab rails or around the rider’s body
  The passenger must lean follow the rider’s lead and lean with the bike when cornering, otherwise the bike will become unstable
  The passenger must wear a legal motorcycle helmet at all times and be properly dressed for riding on a motorcycle
  The passenger must only get on or off the motorcycle when instructed to do so by the rider
  The passenger must not look around behind them or make signals to the rider or passing vehicles
• What would you check and adjust on your motorcycle if you are carrying a passenger or additional load?
  You may need to increase the tyre pressure according to the motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations
  The preload setting of the rear shock may need to be increased
  The headlight and mirrors will point higher with a passenger on the pillion, so they may need to be adjusted to compensate
• How will a passenger on the pillion affect the motorcycle?
  The motorbike’s acceleration will be slower while the braking distance will increase
  The passenger will push against the rider during braking, especially when braking strongly and this could affect the rider’s stability
  Balance around corners, in bends and at slow speeds will be affected due to the passenger’s weight e.g. the bike may lean more heavily in a corner than the rider is use to

The whole practical motorcycle test has a duration of 35 to 40 minutes.

If you pass your Practical Motorcycle Test

At the end of your practical motorcycle test you are given your result.

• If you have a photo id card licence issued after 1 Mar 2004 then you can get your new full licence issued automatically. The instructor will take your current photo id licence and give you a certificate to prove that you passed the practical motorcycle test. The DVLA will then send you your new motorcycle licence in the mail after about 3 weeks.
• If you have a licence issued before 1 Mar 2004 then you will be given a practical test pass certificate. There are further instructions on the back of the pass certificate, but basically you must send your pass certificate and current licence to the DVLA together with a fee and they will then send you your new motorcycle licence. You have two years to send your pass certificate to the DVLA. Beware that if you fail to send your pass certificate to the DVLA in the two year window, then you will loose your motorcycle entitlement and will be back at square one requiring a new provisional licence!

For the first two years of any motorcycle licence that you obtain you are in a probation period. This means that you will loose your motorcycle entitlement if you get six or more penalty points on your licence in the first two years of having it. This would result in starting all over again.

Note

• A restricted full motorcycle licence (category A2) limits you to riding bikes with a maximum power output of 25 kW (33 bhp). This is a power output limit and not an engine capacity (cc) limit. Hence you may wish to buy a more powerful motorcycle and have a restrictor kit fitted by an authorised dealer. This will restrict your high cc motorcycle to the 25 kW power output limit. The kit can then be removed when the two year restriction period is over. This strategy has pros and cons. On the one hand it saves you having to buy a more powerful motorcycle when the two years are up which means you do not suffer the depreciation of your ’temporary’ motorbike’s value. On the other hand you may find that insurers give you hassles as they see bikes with restrictor kits as risky
• It is worth it to go for the restricted standard motorcycle licence (category A2 licence) instead of the light motorcycle licence (category A1 licence). The bike on which you take the practical motorcycle test is basically the same and the cost of the test is the same. The category A2 licence will become a full standard motorcycle licence after two years, giving you access to any motorcycle on the market. Even if you think you won’t be interested in bigger bikes now, it’s nice to keep your options open
• There is a new practical motorcycle test on its way in 2008!

If you fail your Practical Motorcycle Test

If you fail your practical motorcycle test then you can book the test again for another go. But you must wait for ten whole working days before you can book your next practical test appointment. Be sure to examine your riding test report which will show you the mistakes you made.

This article will discuss the characteristics of motorcycles in everyday traffic situations. Automobile drivers, also known as Cagers, need to be aware that a motorcyclist will often slow down their motorcycle by down shifting or by simply rolling off the throttle. What this means is that the brake light is not activated. Given this knowledge, we advise that motorists allow more following distance to give motorcyclists and yourself more room to maneuver. Common sense also dictates that you predict a motorcyclist may slow down at intersections without visual warning.

Motorcyclists use both their turn signals and hand motions to announce a lane change or turn. Some motorcyclist forgets to cancel their turn signals. Although newer models have built in self-canceling turn signals, some beginners and experts may still forget to cancel their signal. So, make sure a motorcycle’s signal is valid.

A motorcyclist will often adjust their position within their lane. This is mainly for better visibility, to avoid debris, and to minimize affects of weather and other vehicles. This behavior should not be interpreted as reckless driving. If anything, it will help you, the Cager, be aware of the motorcyclist.

Since a motorcycle is obviously smaller in size than an automobile, although the rider may be quite large, please be aware that because of its small size a motorcycle may seem to moving faster than it actually is. Also because of this small size, a motorcycle may look farther away than it is. When checking traffic to turn at an intersection, always predict that a motorcycle is closer than it looks. A car pulling left in front of an oncoming motorcyclist causes the number one motorcycle and automobile accident. Please do not do this; it tends to ruin everyone’s day.

A motorcycle’s stopping distance is almost the same as for a car, but road conditions and rider skill level may affect stopping distance. As always, allow for more following distance when behind a motorcycle.

When a motorcyclist is carrying a passenger, this will complicate all of the motorcyclists riding responsibilities. Stopping distance, motorcycle handling, maneuverability and balance are all affected by the passenger. When you see two on a motorcycle, give the motorcyclist plenty of room.

Keeping a safe following distance when following motorcyclists cannot be stressed enough. From the motorcyclist ability to slow with using the brake, to having a passenger, to having smaller mirrors making it harder to judge the distance of the car following them. We strongly recommend keeping a three or four second following distance and space cushion when following a motorcyclist.

As the weather turns warmer, start to look for motorcyclists, especially when checking traffic at intersections. There are a lot more trucks and cars than motorcycles on the highways. Many motorcyclists do not recognize a motorcycle. They often choose to ignore it. Whether unintentionally or through stupidity because the Cager is busy applying their makeup or talking on their cell phone while drinking their Starbucks coffee all while trying to drive. Please stop and be a responsible citizen and drive your car when you are moving. There will be plenty of time later in the day to use your cell and drink your coffee. Hopefully these tips will keep me alive by making you more aware of the characteristics of a motorcycle in traffic.

Finally, do not think of a motorcycle as a machine; we motorcyclists are people so treat us with the respect with which we are due.

You must have a provisional moped or motorcycle licence to book your motorcycle theory test. The test is run by the Driving Standards Agency (DSA) and you can do the test at one of almost 200 DSA Theory Test Centres around the UK. The motorbike theory test is comprised of two parts, the first being 35 multiple choice questions and the second a hazard perception test. You must pass the theory test before you can do your moped or motorcycle practical test.
Exemptions

If you got your full moped licence on or after 1 Jul 1996, and you did the motorcycle theory test as part of getting your moped licence, then you do not need to redo the motorcycle theory test when upgrading to another category of motorcycle licence.

You do not need to redo the motorbike theory test if you are upgrading from a lower category motorcycle licence to a higher one e.g. from a Category A1 motorcycle licence to a Category A motorcycle licence.

Note that the car theory test and the motorcycle theory test are two distinct tests. Hence you must do the motorcycle theory test to qualify for doing your motorcycle practical test, even if you have already done a car theory test as part of getting your full car driving licence.

If you got your full moped licence by doing your CBT to validate the moped entitlement on your car driving licence, then you must still do the motorcycle theory test to qualify for the practical motorcycle test (since you’ve gotten your full moped licence without doing a motorcycle theory test).

Preparing for Your Theory Test

With your first theory test booking confirmation letter, the DSA will send you a CD ROM which explains the process of taking the theory test.
Multiple Choice Preparation

The multiple choice questions are based on the Highway Code and road safety topics. The DSA have a list of about 1000 questions from which 35 are chosen for your test. To prepare for the multiple choice part of the theory test, there are four books known as the source material which I recommend that you get your hands on:

Hazard Perception Preparation

The hazard perception test is a screen based test in which you watch road scenes unfold and have to click whenever you spot a riding hazard. You’ve got a better chance of success if you practice the hazard perception test. You can buy interactive hazard test practice software packages and DVD’s cheaply online:

What Happens At The Motorcycle Theory Test

You must bring your licence with you for inspection at the theory test centre. You must take both the photo card and paper counterpart. If you have an old school paper licence with no photo, then you must also take some form of photo ID, like your passport. You aren’t allowed to take any belongings into the test room, but there are lockers provided. Mobiles must be switched off.
Multiple Choice Questions

The test is done on a computer touch screen. You get 15 minutes practice time to get used to the screen before the real test starts. When the test starts the questions are shown one at a time and you enter your answer by touching your choice on the screen. You can scroll back and forth between the questions and change your answer if you wish. You have 40 minutes to answer the 35 questions.
Hazard Perception Test

The hazard perception test is also done on the computer touch screen. Road scenes are shown and you have to click when you see any potential hazards develop. The quicker you notice the hazard the higher your score. Each candidate will be tested on 14 film clips chosen at random from a series of 200.

Overall the motorbike theory test will take about one hour. You will get the motorcycle theory test result on at the end of the test.
Motorcycle Theory Test Pass Certificate

If you pass your theory test you will be given a pass certificate which is valid for two years. You must have a valid theory test pass certificate to book your practical moped or motorcycle test. If your motorcycle theory test certificate expires before you obtain your full moped or motorcycle licence, then you will have to redo the theory test before you can book your practical test.
If you fail

In the very unlikely event that you fail the motorcycle theory test, study the feedback given on your letter and identify why you failed. If you want to book another theory test you can do so from the day after your test onwards, but you cannot take the test again for another three clear working days.

# Don’t book your motorcycle theory test until you are well prepared and feel confident of achieving a pass. Being well prepared will save you time and money
# Most motorcycle training centres e.g. where you do your CBT offer courses to help you prepare for your theory test. You can’t go wrong getting some help from expert trainers
# You can do your compulsory basic training and theory test in any order, but you must have a provisional moped or motorcycle licence to do either
# You must give three full working days notice if you wish to cancel your postpone your motorcycle theory test, otherwise you will loose your fee. You can cancel or postpone by phone or online

Motorcycles with flat tires . . . roll hard! If your motorcycle is cruising along at 55 mph and your rear motorcycle tire suddenly deflates [has a blow out!] you now have a tremendously, dangerous challenge ahead of you. Avoiding other vehicles, controlling the steering, a swaying rear-end making everything unstable makes for a sizable victory when you roll off the side of the road and come to a stop. Congratulations, job well done! More riders than not end in an accident or something worse. All because of their motorcycle tires. Who knows your thoughts if it is the front tire to blow? You better be prayed up.

We all want a sharp looking bike. Once you select your make and model, your interest is on chrome, color, accessories, personal appearance, dress etc. but let us not forget about the importance of the rubber motorcycle tires that get us around. Frame, structure and engine all work together and hopefully are worry free for years. Motorcycle tires keep moving and we need to often watch for wear and safety.

There are two critical places that motorcycles need to be checked before each ride or at least once a month. Both are easy to do and both are many times overlooked. One area is brake fluid. If the pedal is mushy, bleed the lines or have someone else do it. Two, motorcycle tires need to be inspected. Why do we forget these?

Our safety depends on it. We trust our life to the two motorcycle tires under us that have at best two patches of rubber in contact with the ground the size of our two hands at any given moment. Move that along at 55 mph or even at 15 mph and each of the motorcycle tires is taking on a serious responsibility. The attention and care we offer towards our motorcycle tires can help us tremendously with our safety and enjoyment of biking.

Here are some areas where things can go wrong with your motorcycle tires:

- Tire Pressure: Under-inflation may cause uneven wear, loss of control [stability], wears the motorcycle tires out faster and increases the chances of the motorcycle tires failure. Over-inflation allows motorcycle tires to heat up, limit traction [although a slight 10% over-inflation may actually increase traction in wet conditions] and affects the wear. To correct these, use a good tire gauge and check the motorcycle tires when it is cool. Keep the motorcycle tires pressure at the recommended PSI.

- Fluids: Brake fluid, gas and lube spills need to be cleaned immediately. It deteriorates the rubber. Many of the cleaner protectants used on motorcycle tires harm the finish rubber. The best way to clean is to use old-fashioned soap and water.

- Bumps: Potholes, curbs and stones may slash or crack the tire. Look for any problem.

- Accelerated wear: Everyday use may be a potential hazard. Spinning motorcycle tires on take off or holding the brake on emergency stops need to be checked.

- Nails, screws etc.: It is better to find them before you ride than to discover these nuisances 20 minutes down the road. Motorcycle tires that use a tube may “pop” from a nail/screw or sharp object, where a tubeless tire may have the nail/screw actually plug the hole they created which gives you a little more time for repairs.

- Valve stems: Make sure the cap is on. It helps to protect the valve stem from leaking air and protects the stem valve from opening by centrifugal force and leaking air at higher speeds. When you use motorcycle tires with tubes, the valve stem should be straight out. If it is on a slant, the tire has been under-inflated and the tube has moved around the rim. Often this damages the tube and creates a leak.

- Tire weights: Weights need to be firmly fixed to the rim. If they fall off it will throw the tire out of balance and cause uneven wear.

- Rim: Cracked or dented rims are potential problems. You may want to replace wire spoke wheels when they become damaged with a cast or billet wheel that uses tubeless tires. Check with your dealer on this.

- Worn/torn: Thin tread is easier to detect. Flat wear is due to leaning very little and driving mostly in a straight line, resulting in a ridge at the edge of the flattened middle of the tire. This causes motorcycle tires to become unstable in a leaning turn. It wants to warble. The tire may have more wear but it should be replaced. [It is good to replace both front tire and rear tire at the same time.] Sidewall punctures, cracking, cord separation are an alert.

- Tread: Check the grooves called “sipes” making sure that the tread is still sufficient. The lack of having tread affects the cooling of the tire when in use, wear, stability, traction and can cause hydroplaning on wet roads.

When doing your inspection of motorcycle tires get a friend to roll the bike while you check the tread and sidewalls. You may need to get a work stand if alone. Obstacles to having a good inspection are long pipes, saddlebags, fenders etc. making it hard to see the rear tire. Front motorcycle tires are a bit easier to examine. This sounds like a lot but it goes quickly and is easy to do. Make it a habit to check your motorcycle tires frequently.

Some miscellaneous information you need to know. You will have better handling and get more out your motorcycles tires when you keep the rear tire aligned and balanced. Consider having this looked at approximately every1000 miles. Be careful when you have new motorcycle tires it takes the first couple of rides to get traction working well.

So! Happy riding and remember to check your motorcycle tires often.

Directing most of this through the manufacturing process is usually a person who has the ability to keep the machines moving, as the manufacturing process becomes much more mechanical to save costs on the materials being combined with the effort, and the brands that create their own spin on the leather motorcycle jacket become more unique as the times begin to shift trends in a new direction. It can be difficult to condense all the processes into a short synopsis to explain appropriately the way in which a design becomes a reality, and the creation becomes a wearable good that can be shipped all over the world.

In America, where this look really seemed to take off, the leather is still hand-cut from premium-quality American leather to be custom-tailored to a rider’s personal measurements. Perfected over sixty years of designs, these jackets are still popular with riders the world over, and can be shipped to any destination relatively easily and affordable. Ordering information can be just as easily acquired over the Internet, as well as through any number of catalogs that will give the shopper a good choice of materials, and can make the most of the amount of money that the average consumer would be willing to spend.

You do not need any previous riding experience to do your compulsory basic training.

The CBT is not a test which you can fail, so if you complete the day’s training you will be issued with your DL196 certificate. The DL196 certificate is a legal document which you must have to validate your provisional motorcycle or moped licence.

When you receive your provisional moped licence or your provisional motorcycle licence, you must do your compulsory basic training before you can ride a motorbike on the road.

If you hold a full car driving licence and it has a provisional category A entitlement (provisional motorcycle licence), then you must also do your compulsory basic training before you can ride a light motorcycle as a learner on the road.

If you gained your full moped licence prior to 1 Dec 1990, then you must do your compulsory basic training again to validate the provisional motorcycle licence and be allowed to ride a light motorcycle as a learner.

If your full car driving licence was issued from 1 Feb 2001 onwards, then it has a full category P entitlement (full moped licence), but you must first do your compulsory basic training before this entitlement becomes valid. A DL196 certificate gained in this way has no expiry date.
CBT Exemptions

* If your full moped licence was issued from 1 Dec 1990 onwards, then you can ride a light motorcycle as a learner without having to do your CBT again (you must be at least 17 to ride a light motorcycle).
* If your full car driving licence was issued before 1 Feb 2001, then your licence has a full category P entitlement (a full moped licence), meaning that you can ride a moped on the road without having to the CBT first.

Before You Book Your Compulsory Basic Training

To do your CBT, you need one of the following:

* A provisional moped licence (Provisional category P entitlement)
* A provisional motorcycle licence (Provisional category A entitlement)
* A full UK car driving licence showing a category P or category A entitlement

Note that you cannot do your compulsory basic training if you have a non-UK driving licence. If you have a European licence you can get a UK equivalent licence. If you have a licence from outside of Europe, then you can exchange your foreign licence for a UK licence. You can also simply apply for a provisional moped or motorcycle licence.

What Happens At Your Compulsory Basic Training
What to Bring to the CBT

If you are doing your CBT on a motorcycle provided by the training company, then you only need to take your licence with you. For mopeds, this can be your provisional moped licence or full UK driving licence. For compulsory basic training for light motorcycles, this can be your provisional motorcycle licence or full UK driving licence with provisional category A entitlement.

Be sure to take both parts of your licence, the photo ID card and the corresponding paper document. A valid D441 (temporary driving licence) or an old school paper licence are valid substitutes for an ID card licence, but you must take an extra form of identification, like your passport with you when taking one of the above.

If you are doing compulsory basic training on your own motorcycle, then you must also take proof of insurance, have a valid road tax disc on your bike and, if the bike is more than three years old, proof of MOT status. Your motorcycle will also need to have L plates fitted.

Note: You must pass an eye sight is test at the start of the CBT to qualify for completing the course. So if you wear glasses or contacts, don’t forget them!
What to Wear for your CBT

Most training companies will provide you with a helmet. You cannot ride without a motorcycle helmet so double check if it is provided. If you take your own helmet, it must be legal which means it must adhere to the BS 6658 and ECE R 22-05 standards (displayed on the helmet). A high viz waistcoat should also be provided. Some companies also provide riding gear like gloves and water proof trousers. I advise you that you dress sensibly wearing a pair of trousers, a durable jacket and robust boots.
The Five CBT Elements

The Compulsory Basic Training is a full days training, approximately 09h00 to 17h00. There are five elements that make up the day which are completed in sequence and you will only move on from one element to the next when the instructor is satisfied that you have learnt the practical skills being taught. The five elements are:

* Introduction (30 to 45 min)
First your required documents e.g. you licence will be inspected (requirements are discussed above). For the eye sight test you must be able to read a licence plate from 67 feet away. The introductory talk is about the goals of the CBT and general road safety.
* Practical On-Site Training (45 min to 1 hr)
During this element you will learn the controls of the motorcycle and the checks that you must perform on the bike to insure that it is safe to ride. You will also be shown how to use the stand of the motorbike, how to wheel the bike and how to brake properly. Finally you will start and stop the engine.
* Practical On-Site Riding (2 to 3 hrs)
This is when you learn how to actually ride the motorcycle. You will practice changing gears, observation and indicating, manoeuvring and braking as well as parking.
* Practical On Road Training (45 min to 1 hr)
This is a classroom style lesson which covers many of the dangers on the road and teaches you the techniques required for riding safely. You will cover defensive driving, correct position on the road, observation and other relevant topics.
* Practical On Road Riding (at least 2 hrs)
Now you can hit the road. You will follow the instructor on your motorcycle and ride in the traffic. The instructor will check that you can perform the basic manoeuvres that you were taught during the practical on-site riding on the actual road.

What You Can Ride

If you complete the day at an acceptable level of competence, then you are issued with your DL196 certificate.

* If you have a provisional moped licence you can now ride a motorcycle classed as a moped on the road. This is any motorbike with an engine capacity of no more 50cc and a maximum speed not exceeding 31 mph (50 kph). You must have L plates (D plates in Wales), cannot carry a passenger on the pillion and may not ride on motorways.
* If you have a provisional motorcycle licence you can now ride a motorbike which has an engine capacity of no more than 125cc and a maximum power output of 11 kW (14.6 bhp). You must have L plates (D plates in Wales), cannot carry a passenger on the pillion and may not ride on motorways. Learner riders over 21 can practice on bigger bikes under the supervision of an approved instructor who is in radio contact with the learner rider.
* If you have a full car licence then you can now ride a moped without L plates and with a pillion passenger, but not on motorways as mopeds are never allowed on motorways.

Note that if you have a valid DL196 certificate, it validates any provisional motorcycle entitlement that you may hold. For instance, if you did your compulsory basic training to validate your provisional moped licence and then got your provisional motorcycle licence at a later stage, then your provisional motorcycle licence is also valid – just as long as the DL196 certificate has not expired!

Your DL196 Certificate

The DL196 certificate is a legal document which is valid for two years. If you do not pass the theory and practical tests to get a full licence in this two year window, then you must redo your CBT to get a new certificate when it reaches its two year expiry date.

However, if you completed your CBT to validate the category P entitlement (full moped entitlement) which came with your full driving licence, the certificate does not expire after two years and is valid for the life of your driving licence. This makes sense because if you have a full moped licence issued from 1 Dec 1990 onwards then you can ride a light motorbike as a learner without having to redo the CBT.

If you have a valid DL196 certificate and then get your full car driving licence, the certificate automatically validates the moped entitlement that comes with your full driving licence.

You can see that it is well worth to continue on doing the theory and practical tests to obtain a full licence, otherwise you have to keep repeating the CBT, which costs time and money! Besides, you don’t want to ride with L plates forever.

Since the CBT is not a test, you can ride a light motorcycle even if you did your CBT on a moped (automatic or manual), just as long as you have category A entitlement on your provisional or full driving licence.

You’re probably itching to get you full licence by now! Check out my section on the motorcycle theory test where I’ll help you get prepared. I also cover the motorcycle practical test. Since the CBT only covers the basics of motorcycling, it is advisable that you seek out further training before doing your practical test.

Compulsory Basic Training Tips

* Although you need no riding experience to do your compulsory basic training, you could familiarise yourself with the Highway Code before you go. You’re going to have to go through the Highway Code at some stage, so get it out of the way early on. Buy the Highway Code
* It is well worth it to continue on to doing the theory and practical tests to obtain a full licence; otherwise you have to keep repeating the CBT, which costs time and money! Besides, you don’t want to ride with L plates forever. Your motorcycle insurance will also be cheaper when you have a full motorcycle licence
* Ensure that you book your CBT at a DSA approved training body . When you book your Compulsory Basic Training, look for a training centre that offers:
Flexible training – good training centres will take you through each element at your own pace
Riding gear – you probably don’t have your own motorcycle helmet or gloves at this point
Guaranteed Pass
* Compulsory basic training was introduced to curb the high number of accidents that new riders were having. Motorcycling is much more of an art than driving a car. Training is essential for your safety, but also to increase your riding skills which makes your riding more relaxed and fun and lets you push your boundaries without loosing control
* If it rains on the day of your CBT you still have to go, after all you will have to be able to ride in all sorts of weather conditions. Ask your training centre whether they provide waterproof gear, if not, take your own. If you fail to show up for your CBT you could loose your fee.
* You must present a valid DL196 certificate to be allowed to do your practical moped or motorcycle test.

Note: I decided to buy myself a 125cc and get some riding experience before continuing with the Theory and Practical Tests, something that I would personally recommend. There are some great 125’s on the market, and second hand prices won’t set you back all that much. With enough power to enjoy yourself and at the same time build on the skills you have learned during the CBT, it’s a good way to start your motorcycling. Through the DAS course it is possible to go from Compulsory Basic Training to Full Motorcycle Licence within 6 days! However I think this is rushing the process and it is much more likely that you will get yourself into a dangerous situation.

The thought of someone loosing their possessions kind of splits me down the middle of what I should feel. One half of me feels really bad for that person. I could not begin to imagine what it is like to have someone come in and take my stuff from me because I could not afford it. The other half of me is kind of excited because I want what they had.

I started looking into motorcycle auctions because of Bike Week in Daytona Florida. There was a guy down there who had a sick looking set of wheels. It was a 1958 Harley and brother and sisters, let me tell you, it was mint. I could not stop looking at this bike. I am not by any means a biker. The guy who owned this bike knew it because of the questions I was asking. Long story short, he and I became good friends. We chatted over the internet about business interest they we each have.

Later that year, business brought me near his house in Texas. I called him when I was in town and he invited me over. Now, when I get there, to his house, the garage doors are open. He and a couple of his friends were sitting there having an adult beverage or 3 talking about various things. But I was still in shock that there were 14 motorcycles in his garage. Ok, they must belong to the friends of his. But when the party was over and they took off, they left in their cars and the bikes stayed. I asked him about them and he said he owned them all. Wow, this dude is really rich. I have to get his business secrets. He knows something.

So later that evening, while discussing the stocks, he said that the best money he has made is in the auctions. Auctions? Ok, I needed and explanation.

So he starts to tell me the story of his investments in motorcycles. All of the bikes downstairs were his. 5 were being sold in the next few days. The money comes from the profit margin he was getting. He gave the example of the 2006 BMW R 1200 GS that he had. He got it at an auction for $395 dollars. The bike was in perfect condition and had only 1009 miles on it. So he puts it in the paper, listing it as the wife is making him get rid of it, which is not a lie. She did not like BMW bikes or cars. He lists it for $4,000 dollars. Within 3 days, he had 35 calls on it wanting to look at it. Problem is that on the first day, it ran in the paper, a gentleman called and said he really wanted this bike and he had cash. When the guy got there, he bargained a little with my friend, who was reluctant, but let it go for $3,600 dollars. Wow, that must have been hard to let that go for a $3,205 dollar profit. Yep, real hard.

On Thursday, he said was going over to Dallas to catch an auction that had 23 bikes involved. He asked if I asked if I wanted to tag along just to see what it is like. So I cancelled my flight and Thursday, we were off to Dallas.

The auctions he was going to was being held at 3pm. There were a lot of people there. I would say around 500 people. The items that were being auctioned ranged from seized cars to boats, jet skis to 4-wheelers. There were a lot of vehicles. I saw a guy end up with a 32 foot catamaran boat for just over $10,000 dollars. I thought this was a place of deals. That price scared the hell out of me. My buddy was kind of shocked because a boat like that inland was kind of weird to him. He then told me the boat was probably worth just over $120,000 dollars. Ok, maybe that was a bit of a bargain, I still have not picked up my jaw.

Now, the bikes. There were 21, not the original 23 he had thought. He probably got his auctions mixed up because of how many there are. 7 Harley Davidson bike and they were nice. There was one bike there that was a custom builder’s bike. So let’s cut to the chase. My buddy buys 3 bikes. 2 HD bikes and 1 Kawasaki 2005 Vulcan 1600 Classic. The Vulcan, he got that for $950 dollars. He said that he can sell for $6,000 dollars. The HD’s were very nice. One was a 1997 Heritage Springer. That one he got for $1900 dollars. He said he would list that one for $10,000 dollars. The other HD, a 2003 Fat Boy will list for $12, 000 dollars in the paper. He got it for $1,500 dollars.

So, being a business man, I had to ask his secret. He then tells me that it is no secret. It is a matter of public record. All the auctions have to be printed in the paper. From 200 miles away they advertise in your paper, was my next question. He then starts to tell me of a web site that he uses and that he paid $30 bucks, one time and they give him all the auctions throughout the US and what is being auctioned in each. That is his leg work. Sitting behind a desk, just like you are right now, looking that the computer screen. In fact I now go on that very web site and shop when I am at the airport during my regular business trips. I have been to a few auctions since my buddy showed me the way. I have not found the bike I have been looking for but I did pick up a nice 65 Mustang for $1200 dollars. I sold it for $14,000 dollars.

I am telling you that if you are in the market to find an expensive bike, but you want to pay a fraction of the price, then the Sheriff Auctions site is for you. For a one time payment of $29.99, you get access to:

1. Auction listings containing auctions of Government-seized and other property including motorcycles, cars, trucks, vans, SUVs, and boats.

2. Listings of live online Sheriff Auctions and other Auctions in your local area and throughout the USA, so you will always get the best deals, complete with the contact names, addresses, phone numbers, email addresses, and websites for easy reference and immediate use.

3. Full access to our Members’ Area, containing current reports on the date, time, and locations of the best Government Auctions and other Auctions happening in your local area as well as throughout the surrounding region and across the USA. And a whole lot more…

This information would cost you a ton if you were to do it on your own. All of the information is right there for you. Who wants to have 3000 news papers delivered to their house every week so they can look for the Sheriff Auctions? And when are you going to have the time to open and look thru all of them? With a money back guarantee, how can you go wrong? I know I’m not. I will be doing an online auction in a few hours and I plan on getting my bike there. An O.C.C. that has been listed in a small area of the US. Not a lot of bidders, so I should make out. Take care and be safe!

* The Provisional Moped Licence (also called a Provisional Category P entitlement)
* The Provisional Motorcycle Licence (also called a Provisional Category A entitlement)

You can apply for your provisional licence by submitting a driving licence application form (Form D1) together with a fee, a photograph and identification to the DVLA. See How to Apply below for more details. You should receive your provisional licence within three weeks of the DVLA receiving your application.

When you receive your provisional moped or motorcycle licence, you can only start riding on the road after you have completed your compulsory basic training (CBT). Upon completing your CBT you will be issued with a DL196 certificate which is valid for two years and validates your provisional licence. You must keep the DL196 certificate together with your provisional licence to make it legal for you to ride on the road.

In most cases, people with provisional moped or motorcycle entitlements issued as part of their full car driving licenses must also do a CBT before being allowed to ride a motorbike on the road.

Provisional Moped Licence

You must be at least 16 years old to apply for a provisional moped licence. Your provisional moped licence expires on your 70th birthday.

Your provisional moped licence allows you to ride a moped, which is any motorcycle with:

* An engine capacity of no more than 50cc (33 bhp)
* A maximum speed of 31mph (50kph)
* A maximum weight of 250kg

Your provisional moped licenece has the following restrictions:

* You must ride with L plates (D plates in Wales) at all times
* You may not carry a pillion passenger
* Note that motorcycles classed as mopeds are not allowed on motorways, no matter what licence you hold

If your full car driving licence was issued from 1 Feb 2001 onwards, then your driving licence was issued with a full Category P Entitlement. Hence you do not need to apply for a provisional moped licence. You do however still have to do your CBT to validate the Category P entitlement and be allowed to ride a moped on the road.

If your full car driving licence was issued before 1 Feb 2001 then you have a full Category P Entitlement (full moped licence). Accordingly, you can ride a moped without restrictions and without having to do a CBT. I recommend that you still complete the CBT for your own safety!

If you got your provisional moped licence and did your CBT while you were 16, and your provisional licence has provisional Category A on it, then you can immediately start riding a light motorcycle (bike up to 125 cc) when you turn 17. If your provisional moped licence does not have Category A on it, you must apply for a provisional motorcycle licence from the DVLA before you can start riding anything bigger than a moped. In either case, you do not have to redo your CBT when you turn 17!
Note

* A 50cc bike that has a maximum speed notably greater than 31 mph (50 kph) is not classed as a moped and cannot be ridden with a provisional moped licence. 50cc bikes are however generally restricted to a max speed of 19 mph to 31 mph (30 kph to 50 kph)
* A moped can have manual or automatic transmission. Automatic mopeds are often called scooters
Provisional Motorcycle Licence

You can apply for a provisional motorcycle licence when you are 17 or older. A provisional motorcycle licence is valid until the holder’s 70th birthday.

Your provisional motorcycle licence allows you to ride a light motorcycle (also called a training motorcycle). This is any motorcycle with:

* An engine capacity of no more than 125cc
* A maximum power output of 11kW or 14.6 bhp

Your provisional motorcycle licence has the following restrictions:

* You must ride with L plates (D plates in Wales) at all times
* You may not carry a pillion passenger
* You may not ride on motorways
* Learner riders over 21 years old can ride larger bikes when supervised by a Direct Access instructor.

If you have a full moped licence, then you automatically have a provisional motorcycle licence from the age of 17 onwards. If you gained your full moped licence prior to 1 Dec 1990, then you must do your CBT again to validate the provisional motorcycle licence and be allowed to ride a light motorcycle as a learner. If your full moped licence was issued from 1 Dec 1990 onwards, then you can ride a light motorcycle as a learner provided that you are at least 17 years old.

If you hold a full car driving licence check whether it was issued with a provisional Category A entitlement. If so, you do not need to apply for a provisional motorcycle licence. You can now do your CBT to validate your provisional motorcycle licence and then start riding a light motorcycle with the usual learner restrictions in place (listed above). A full car driving licence issued before 1 Feb 2001 should have a provisional category A entitlement.

If you have a full car driving licence without a provisional Category A entitlement, then you must apply for a provisional motorcycle licence before you can do your CBT and get on the road on a light motorcycle.
Tip

* When you apply for your provisional car licence, be sure to tick the motorcycle entitlement box as well. This will save you having to reapply for your provisional motorcycle licence if you want to start riding a light motorcycle before getting your full car licence.

More on Motorbike Licences

A driving licence is a photo ID card which shows which types of vehicles you are allowed to drive. You will for instance not have separate car and motorcycle licences, but rather one licence with different provisional or full entitlements. Hence a provisional driving licence looks exactly like a normal driver’s licence except it will have an L in the top left corner.

A provisional entitlement allows you to drive the relevant type of vehicle as a learner with L plates and certain restrictions. A full entitlement allows you drive the relevant vehicle without the L plates or the restrictions placed on learner drivers.

Since you have only one licence, if you are banned from driving a car, you are also banned from driving a motorcycle, yikes!

All licences, road tax and vehicle registrations are issued by the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA). The Driving Standards Agency (DSA) over see the testing of learner drivers. The DSA manages the quality of CBT courses and runs the theory and practical tests that learners must pass to obtain their full licences.

Motorcycle helmets act as a protection device for your head. Nearly all motor crashes in which riders do not wear helmets, result in major head injuries. To drive this point further, according to a survey done in the state of California, in 900 crashes, there were 980 head and neck injuries. The major factor was that most riders were not wearing proper headgear.

Canada has made it a mandatory rule for motorbike riders to wear helmets after seeing the way people die in these accidents. But in the USA, in some states, it still remains a choice for the rider – so it is for you to decide what is more precious to you.

Hopefully, now that you are convinced about purchasing a helmet, let us see some of the things that you should keep in mind while buying a motorcycle helmet.

All helmets have an outer shell and an inner shell. The outer shell is meant to protect the head from initial impact and undertake all the abrasions onto it. The inner shell is basically a lining of foam that aims at minimizing the impact of the shock by absorbing it as much as possible. It is also supposed to provide comfort to the rider as well.

In order to ascertain whether your helmet is safe enough for you or not, you must check whether it has the Department of Transportation sticker or not. A globally accepted safety standard for helmets is a sticker by the Snell Memorial Foundation.

Besides these safety stickers, the other important thing is to ensure that the motorcycle helmet of your choice gives you a proper fit. It should not be loose or too tight. You must be comfortable with it, as remember that you will be wearing it for quite some time. There should not be any red marks on your head or face – otherwise the helmet is too tight for you. At the same time, it should not come off your head or it just might fall off in an accident- providing you with no protection.

Also, you must choose between the various types of materials of which motorcycle helmets are made. Heavy helmets are made of fiberglass but it can crack if dropped. Another type of material used is injection-molded plastic. This is cheap and light but requires a lot of care. So think before you decide.

Enjoy the ride!

World-famous braking specialist Brembo has released a new range of high-performance pads compatible with all brands of caliper.
There are two main types: sintered and carbon-ceramic, available in road and racing compounds. The sintered racing type is suitable for racing, track-day or fast road use in all conditions. Best kept for racing, the racing carbon pad is designed to work at very high temperatures.

Of the road compounds, the sintered version is designed for all-round use in all conditions. The carbon road pad boasts a very low wear-rate, and works in high and low temperatures.

Finally, there are two different sintered pads for off-road applications, the SD and SX. The SD is an all-round pad for all conditions, whereas the SX is designed to perform at high temperatures under the most extreme racing conditions.

We’ve just spent a couple of days around Vicenza in northern Italy at the Spidi headquarters, checking out the firm’s clothing collection for next year. And the firm, best known for its classy-yet-high-tech kit, had a whole slew of fancy new items for us to drool over. First up is a brand new top-of-the-line race suit, the GP Kangaroo.

As the name suggests, it’s made from tougher-yet-lighter kangaroo hide, and Spidi claims that unlike some competitor suits, it’s made entirely from kangaroo hide, rather than just important panels. There are a few new innovations – the knee armour can be adjusted up and down for a fine fit adjustment, it can accept the Spidi Defender back and chest protector panels, and small 3M reflector panels on the rear hump add passive safety.

The optional Hydroback system allows you to carry a small water bladder inside the hump, for easy rehydration on the go, and the whole suit feels light and well-made. It should do of course, since it’ll be retailing at £1,000 when it hits the showrooms around October this year.

No, it’s not any of their bikes (although the new Street Triple is a steal at £5,350), but rather their clothing as the Triumph summer clothing sale starts this weekend. With up to 50 per cent off many lines, now is your chance to grab some really quality gear from the British manufacturer. If you’ve got a Triumph then it’s a bit of a no-brainer as you can wear, as well as ride, the brand, but the clothing is that good that non-Triumph riders should really consider it too, regardless of the label.
So check out your local Triumph dealer.

Anyway, here’s one of our favourite glam gals Karina sporting the new RS Taichi GMX Motion leather jacket. 1.4mm cowhide, genuine Keprotec stretch panels, Knox armour, plastic-coated YKK zips which comes with a zip-out windproof and waterproof liner. There’s neoprene on the collar and cuffs too…

And doesn’t that trucker’s cap just set off the whole ensemble? It looks better on Karina than it does on the editor.